When it comes to Spanish cooking in D.C., there’s one thing restaurateur Michael Schlow is quick to point out.
“The bar has been set very, very high here,” he says. “We have José Andrés, who is a culinary icon.”
That didn’t stop Schlow from opening his latest concept, a temporary Spanish restaurant named Calle Cinco (465 K St. NW) in the back of Alta Strada. Named after its 5th and K St. NW location, the pop-up opened last week in the space was previously dedicated to Conosci, which closed earlier this month and will look to relocate to a larger space in time. DCist was recently invited to participate in a preview of the launch.
Schlow is no stranger to the D.C. market, having opened five restaurants, including Tico, Alta Strada, and The Riggsby since 2014. He say’s he’s excited to bring his on take on Spanish tapas to D.C. and stresses he’s not out to eclipse what’s already being done, whether by the boundary-pushing Andrés or others.
Calle Cinco won’t wow diners with modern technical tricks or overtly creative plates. That’s not really the goal. Food here is casual, inspired by what Schlow, chef George Rodrigues, and the team learned and enjoyed while eating across cities like Madrid, Barcelona, and San Sebastian. It’s approachable, well-executed, and likely to resonate with anyone who’s spent entire evenings chowing down on Spanish snacks.
“The ideal really here is to just be something special for the community, but not fancy,” Schlow says.
The menu is expected to change frequently, but expect a mix of meats, cheeses, salads, seafood, and vegetables. On the smaller side, the spicy almonds, deviled eggs with chorizo, and pan con tomate (adding anchovies on top is a good call here) are all addicting ways to start. For a more substantial bite, try the albondigas (meatballs) with tomato sauce and manchego, as well as the ham and potato croquetas. Seafood is easy to come by too, from seared tuna topped with escalivada salad (piquillo peppers, eggplant, onions) or octopus salad made with potatoes, celery, and smoked paprika.
Spanish culture values lingering over good drinks, too. The pick of the bunch here is the “C5 G&T,” ($11) a spin on the the classic drink mixed with a five botanical gin and citrus. There’s also sangria ($8 glass/$32 pitcher) made with dry rose and Spanish brady and a solid list of wine and beer.
Don’t shrug off dessert, either. Pastry chef Alex Levin’s creations are worthy of saving space, especially the gin and tonic sorbet, which he says he’s managed to make with a serious amount of booze that you really can taste. His churros with dark chocolate fudge and horchata ice cream with dulce de leche were perfected with input from the kitchen staff.
Calle Cinco is currently only scheduled to stick around for several weeks, though if it’s popular it may be around for longer. Unlike Conosci, where the $45 to $135 tasting menu format evolved into more of a special occasion spot, Schlow hopes that Calle Cinco will attract neighborhood guests at a more regular clip.
“You can come in every single day and just have a glass of wine and a little something to eat and go on to your next thing, or you can come make a full meal out of it,” he says.
Calle Cinco is located at 465 K St. NW. Hours are Sundays through Thursdays from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. to midnight.
