It’s easy to roll past Henry’s Delicatessen and Carry-out and assume that it’s just another bodega. But a double take of their vintage signage touting “home made sweet potato pie” was enough to entice us to investigate further.

Once inside, we discovered that Henry’s is a classic soul food joint with a menu covering all of the great country food standards. Henry’s has been around since 1968, and the weathered interior, replete with ancient duct work, certainly is a throwback to an earlier time.

As we spent about 15 minutes marveling at the array of options on their menu, a steady stream of customers kept filtering in to pick up orders that they had placed in advance.

We started off with their salmon cake sandwich, which turned out to be a real highlight. It’s barely $3, and yet the buttered and grilled toasty bun was generously stuffed with two enormous fried salmon cakes. The salmon cakes were relatively simple, relying on chopped green onions to add the appropriate bit of savor to the mince of salmon.