I’ve been directed to numerous Japanese restaurants in the past by both self-proclaimed sushi aficionados and those who eat to fill-up, many with forgettable results. So when a friend invited me for lunch at McLean’s Tachibana Restaurant I was expecting more of the same – average sushi at the expense of a smaller bank account.

Apparently, the owners themselves expect their fair share of doubters, evident by the restaurant’s cubbyhole of awards at the entrance of the main dining area. Once inside, it becomes painfully obvious that those awards aren’t for best interior design. Aside from a few Japanese-inspired novelties and two sushi bars, one off to the side and another discreetly tucked away in the back, Tachibana looks more like a ski lodge lobby than an authentic Japanese restaurant. Then again, I’m here for the sushi lunch special, not the décor.

Like the majority of Japanese restaurants, Tachibana serves house salad and miso soup before the main course, neither of which is anything to write home about. Order the shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer instead. The batter fulfills its purpose, adding a crisp texture without interfering with the shrimp’s robust flavor. The massive veggies are impressive as well – think green goodness on steroids – despite the well-overcooked zucchini. There have been many instances that have resulted in what I call “tempura headaches,” copious amounts of oil and batter and not enough substance. Not the case here – Tachibana knows tempura.