Chicken fried quail with rosemary biscuit and morel mushroom gravy

Three or five? This is the question you’ll be asking yourself if you have reservations at Vidalia this week. In addition to the standard three course dinner for $35.08, Vidalia is also offering five courses for $50.08–and no upcharges. That is a mere $10 a course for a restaurant that normally charges $15 for starters and $30 for entrees. However, a Restaurant Week deal is only as good as the menu the restaurant elects to serve. Sometimes, you get what you pay for. In Vidalia’s case, you get much more.

My dining companions and I decided to go on a complete Restaurant Week bender, so it did not seem prudent to stuff down five courses on a Wednesday. (We need to pace ourselves in order to make it to Sunday.) For diners who elect to do the three course meal, you choose your appetizer from course one or course two and your entree from course three or course four. Course five is dessert. Each course has four very promising-looking options. One of my companions noted that ordering was, “the most difficult decision I’ve made all day.”

For our first course, our table ordered the coddled duck egg, chicken-fried quail, house-smoked salmon, and hamachi tuna. The duck egg was a surprise; unlike a chicken egg, the texture was much thicker and gooier, almost like pudding. It was served with some wonderfully crispy sweetbreads, making for a nice contrast in texture. Though not as beautifully presented as the other appetizers, chicken fried quail packed a wallop of complex, woodsy flavors. It was served with a flaky rosemary biscuit and drizzled with a velvety morel mushroom gravy. The execution was spot on–crunchy breading, moist bird, and not a bit greasy. Each element of the dish had a distinct taste, yet none of the flavors overpowered the others. The only downside is that it’s difficult enough to eat a quail with a fork and knife, but it’s doubly challenging when the shape of the bird is obscured by breading. Sadly, Vidalia isn’t exactly the kind of joint where you eat with your hands.