It’s not every day that a tiny mom-and-pop ethnic restaurant is so hotly anticipated. But ever since Prince of Petworth posted a picture of the maroon awning and “Coming Soon” banner, local blogs have been buzzing about the prospect of more Vietnamese food in the city. Pho 14 in Columbia Heights finally opened on Wednesday, and judging by the lines out the door this weekend, D.C. can’t get enough pho.
Pho 14 offers 19 different iterations of pho, 17 with beef, plus one chicken and one vegetarian version. There are five varieties of beef alone (eye-of-round steak, well-done and fat brisket, well-done and skirt flank), plus tripe, tendon, and meatballs. All soups come with the traditional selection of do-it-yourself toppings: bean sprouts, Thai basil, chilis, lime, Sriracha, and hoisin sauce. If you’re not in the mood for soup, there’s also a selection of bun (grilled meat over rice noodles and fresh veggies), rice dishes, and banh mi (French bread sandwiches).
It is arguably the broth that makes or breaks a bowl of pho, and Pho 14’s version is not too shabby. The flavor is mildly beefy, with delicate notes of anise and cinnamon. It’s not as deeply meaty or spiced as Pho 75 in Rosslyn, but it’s more intense than the broth at Nam Viet. Use a light hand when adding hot sauce or lime so as to not overpower the meat and spices. Pho is available in two wallet-friendly sizes — a large bowl is $8.95 and a regular bowl is $7.95.