Brabo’s soft-shell crab over corn, ramps, fiddleheads and bacon.

Dish of the week: Soft-shell crab

Asparagus. Tender, delicate lettuce. Overpriced ramps. All of these items are popping up in area markets, a signal that spring truly has sprung. But for me, the best way to usher in the glorious seasons of eating that lie ahead are those deliciously naked blue crabs: soft shells.

Soft shells are blue crabs that have recently shed their shell and are harvested before they manage to grow a new one. Their slick, velvety skin covers their entire body, and the whole crab is edible once it’s been cleaned of its eyes, mouth and gills (which it will be if you order them in a restaurant). That skin is what gives the sauteed or fried soft shells the slight crunch when you bite into them; what lies beneath is unfettered, succulent crab meat tasting of the ocean and spring itself.

Maybe it’s because I’m not from Maryland, and thus don’t wear a badge of honor about eating their thicker-skinned brethren the hard way. Or maybe it’s because soft-shell crabs are one of the first things I remember going out of my comfort zone to try when I worked at a restaurant in high school. But I love these little guys, and there’s no shortage of them around town for you to indulge in this holiday weekend.

First they popped up at the fish lady’s stand at my neighborhood farmers’ market. Then I got a chance to try Brabo’s take on soft shells during a media dinner this week. They’re sauteed and served with a mix of bacon, ramps, fiddleheads, and corn, and topped off with a watercress and ramp vinaigrette. You can also find a pretty mean pan- or deep-fried soft-shell crab sandwich on a kaiser roll with tartar sauce and a pickle at the Maine Avenue fish market.

Soft shells are a specialty at Seaside Crab House in Falls Church—a cajun crawfish shack and Vietnamese restaurant on Wilson Blvd. that is hardly seaside but popular nonetheless—and Present in Falls Church is also serving them. Bourbon Steak, The Source, 2941 in Falls Church and Nest in Bethesda are just a few other places they’ve been spotted recently.

Planning to grill out for Memorial Day? No problem. Grab a couple crabs at Black Salt or the waterfront and try them on the grill. This recipe recommends brushing them with a mix of butter, lemon and hot sauce while grilling them over a low flame.