Deviled eggs at Dino

Dish of the Week: Deviled eggs
Where: Dino

‘Tis the season for cocktail parties, and it’s likely you might encounter deviled eggs among the plates of hors d’ouerves. Something about deviled eggs seems stuck in the era of Mad Men. Maybe it’s the way the egg yolks are piped in to little flourishes, the simple ingredients involved, and the specialized dinnerware that is available for serving them.

However, the practice of stuffing eggs dates back to Rome in the 1800s. So it isn’t too surprising that one of Washington’s restaurants that offers great deviled eggs serves Italian fare: Dino.

The deviled eggs (Uova alla Diavola) on the small bites menu at Dean Gold’s Cleveland Park outpost start with the traditional base of mayo and mustard-spiked yolks — but then they’re topped with sriracha anchovy aioli and anchovy salsa verde. While many people balk at the concept of consuming anchovies, in minuscule amounts they provide a mouth-pleasing hit of umami and salt to many a dish, often without the diner being aware of it. The combination of fatty, creamy, salty and spicy is hard to beat.