District Kitchen’s duck cracklins. Photo by Erin Keane
District Kitchen opened in Woodley Park earlier this week. The much-anticipated eatery from former Mendocino Grille Chef Drew Trautmann and Jawad Saadaoui of Redwood, serves kicked-up American fare at the remodeled Connecticut Avenue NW space.
In fact, the atmosphere of District Kitchen is among its best qualities. Chandeliers with bare, multi-sized Edison bulbs shed light on the exposed brick walls and cork topped tables. Going to the bathroom feels like freshening up in an early 20th-century outhouse, where guests wash their hands in a tin bucket sink.
Modeled on Spike Gjerde’s Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, The constantly changing menu focuses on seasonal and local ingredients from the mid-Atlantic; diners will notice that the opening menu is heavy on wintery foods such as root vegetables, and heartier cuts of meat such as duck.
Over the course of two hours, the energy of the restaurant was jovial and the bar was always packed. Diners sipped signature cocktails such as “The Gist,” a bourbon, lemon juice and maple syrup concoction that could be served as dessert. An unusual fried starter, duck cracklins with malt vinegar offset the sweetness of the drink. The nosh was mostly unremarkable aside from its satisfying, crunchy texture.
Trautmann has created an array of enticing small plates, including chicken liver mousse and a shirred egg, but the star of the lot is the Cincinnati-style fusilli with lamb chili seasoned to perfection with chocolate and cinnamon.
The highlight of the meal was the pork shank, which arrived at the table nearly melting off the bone. Flanked by kohlrabi kraut and bread dumplings with an essence of bacon, a bite of all three together was the perfect combination of flavor and texture that won’t soon be forgotten.
Unfortunately, the service in this first week still has a way to go. The fusilli and a bowl of oysters, shrimp and andouille arrived tepid and our cocktail glasses were dry for nearly 15 minutes before we were offered another beverage. Though a tall glass of DC Brau complemented a piece of warm apple buckle heaped with pistachio ice cream nicely.
Despite the less than stellar service, once the operational kinks are ironed out, District Kitchen is likely to be a destination for visitors and a go-to for D.C. residents.
2606 Connecticut Avenue NW
(202) 238-9408
Metrorail: Woodley Park-Adams Morgan
Hours:
Sundays-Thursdays: 5 to 10 p.m.
Fridays and Saturdays: 5 to 11 p.m.
