Written by DCist contributor Jenny Holm
I’d never heard of ramps before started frequenting D.C.-area farmers’ markets. These slender wild leeks shoot up from the hillsides of Appalachia in the springtime, their sleek white bulbs and broad green leaves redolent of garlic when cooked. They make a natural companion to the first tender stalks of asparagus that also spring from the ground around this time.
The addition of yogurt to this recipe was inspired by my favorite narrative cookbook of the moment, An Everlasting Meal by Tamar Adler. Greek yogurt is thicker than the usual stuff, which allows it to stand up to the heat of the eggs without running all over the plate. Flecked with red pepper and herbs, it enriches each bite with a gently tart creaminess, turning a basic omelet into something more decadent. Leaving a little of the egg underdone before folding in the filling binds the whole together, giving the innards “something to grab onto,” as Adler puts it.
Pair this omelet with a glass of wine and some crusty buttered baguette for a simple dinner that feels—and tastes—luxurious.
Omelet with Ramps, Asparagus, and Greek Yogurt
Serves 2
6 ramps (wild leeks)
6 stalks asparagus (preferably thin stalks, which are more tender)
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
4 eggs, lightly beaten with a fork
¼ cup plain Greek yogurt
1 clove garlic, crushed or minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (flat-leaf parsley, basil, mint, chives and lemon verbena are especially good)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, if desired
Salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste
1. Rinse and dry the ramps and asparagus well. Slice off the very tips and any brown leaves from the ramps. Chop the white parts into quarter-inch slices, the green leaves into pieces about an inch long. Snap off the tough blunt ends of each asparagus stalk—they usually break naturally about an inch or so up the stalk. Chop them into pieces about an inch long. (If the stalks are more than half an inch thick, slice them in half.
2. Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat. You know it’s hot enough when it seems to thin out and skims easily over the pan’s surface. Saute the ramps and asparagus until the vegetables are softened but not mushy, about five minutes. Remove pan from heat and set aside. Meanwhile, crush or mince the garlic clove and mix it with the Greek yogurt, a small pinch of salt, and red pepper flakes to taste.
3. Heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a small nonstick pan over medium heat until droplets of water flicked onto the surface sizzle gently on impact. While the oil is heating, crack the eggs into a small bowl, add a little salt and black pepper, and beat with a fork to an even consistency.
4. Pour half the beaten eggs into the nonstick pan until the bottom begins to turn white, which should happen almost right away. With a rubber spatula, move the cooked egg to one side and tilt the pan to let the uncooked parts take their place. Continue gently making room for uncooked egg to fill the bottom of the pan until most of the egg is set but the surface still glistens with raw yolk. Remove pan from heat.
5. Spoon half of the asparagus/ramp filling onto half the omelet, spoon two tablespoons of the garlic-yogurt mixture on top, fold the omelet over and slide it onto a plate. Sprinkle a tablespoon of the chopped herbs and some grated parmesan (if desired) on top. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to make the second omelet, or use all the eggs and filling at once and cut it in half to serve two.
