Both Robert and Tom Sietsema agree: you should eat at H Street’s Toki Underground.
The Post’s food critic Tom Sietsema and the Village Voice’s Robert Sietsema might be distant cousins, but they are of similar mind—and palates—when it comes to D.C. dining. After a recent visit to D.C., Robert, who admitted that he had never before been impressed by the city’s culinary offerings, published a list of the six places he recommended his New York-based readers visit when they come to the nation’s capital.
We were curious, though, to see whether or not his opinions matched those of his local relative, himself known for his thorough and taste-defining reviews. For those places that the two Sietsemas reviewed, the opinions were much the same—eat there.
Little Serow (1511 17th Street NW)
Robert: “This new spot is like a Thai answer to our own Mission Chinese, a place founded by cooks who are Siamese culinary scholars become obsessed with Isaan food and, instead of creating pallid examples using so-so ingredients, raided the farmers’ markets here for fresh herbs and crudite, and created a menu with verve and heat that manages to achieve authenticity by being true to its model in a new way. Expect lots of fish sauce, heat, nuts, and things that look like heaped salads on the set seven-course meal ($45), which includes way more than you can eat. Highlights of my meal: pork laab with lemongrass and sawtooth basil, the wonderfully named “phat fuk thong” (pumpkin, egg, and holy basil), and the pork ribs cooked to melting tenderness in Mekhong whiskey.”
Tom: “Eating this food—the most exuberant Thai cooking I’ve encountered on the East Coast—is a (legal) zap to the brain’s pleasure centers. Hot heads will definitely get more out of the trip than will delicate palates.”
Fast Gourmet (1400 W Street NW)
Robert: “This wacky sandwich shop located in a gas station is open 24 hours and staffed by Uruguayans. Already got your mouth watering, right? Among many lunatic sandwich choices, the thing everyone raves about is the chivito, a pressed hot hero sandwich served with fries that’s piled high with beefsteak, ham, bacon, green olives, eggs, and a vegetable escabeche. You won’t be able to walk back to your hotel after that.”
Tom: “Take two sons of a retired Uruguayan diplomat, add a menu that mixes empanadas with Cuban sandwiches, then throw it all together in a Lowest Price gas station in the U Street corridor. What you get is Fast Gourmet, a delicious departure from the usual pit stops lined with Slim Jims and Gatorade.”
Toki Underground (1234 H Street NE)
Robert: “Paradoxically located above a bar in a pleasantly cramped space that makes you feel instantly at home, Toki avoids the pretentiousness that pervades many contemporary hipster noodle parlors. It’s located on a stretch of H Street in the Northeast quadrant of the city that feels a little like Williamsburg with its mix of bars, coffee shops, and cafes. The tonsoku (pig-foot broth) is superb, deeper and denser and more brownish red than the straighlaced and doctrinaire Japanese versions here. What’s more, there’s a Taiwanese tinge to the menu that also makes the place unique. Great dumplings (below) round out the picture.”
Tom: “With fewer than a dozen appetizers (mostly dumplings, the best of which are lightly fried) and bowls of ramen, the menu is an easy read. Each of the five regular soups has its merits; all but the vegetarian choice are based on a broth made with pork bones, which impart an earthy milkiness to the eating. The two ramen I tend to spoon into most often are curry chicken Hakata, floating crisp nuggets of spiced chicken and pickled ginger, and the meatless masumi, packed with a garden of vegetables including squash, seaweed and mushrooms, its broth dark and intense. Temper the heat with a silky side of tofu topped with shaved bonito. Keep dessert in mind: Snickerdoodles take well to chocolate and kimchi pepper flakes.”
Robert also recommended Ben’s Chili Bowl, Stachowski’s and Wagshal’s, none of which have been reviewed by his Washington-based relative. He also recommended the Eden Center in Falls Church, U Street’s Dukem (which Tom likes) and Minibar (which Tom loves).
Martin Austermuhle