I read The Onion’s Mr. Autumn Man post the other day with a sheepish cringe of recognition: “Mr. Fall, who sources speculate loves Thanksgiving, butternut squash soup, homecoming parades, “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” apple-picking, and haunted hayrides, emerges reliably every year around this time in his traditional uniform, sometimes alternating his iconic sweater with a fleece vest or pullover.”
Just call me Lady of the Leaves. I am the female embodiment of this personage, and this soup is my sustenance. Local sweet corn will be available until the first frost, which could be any day now. I made this recipe with corn I blanched, cut off the cob, and froze back in August during peak season, but store-bought corn works equally well.
The high fat content in half-and-half or heavy cream is what keeps them from curdling when added to hot liquid. Substitute fat-free evaporated milk (for a creamy texture) or regular milk if you must, but don’t let the soup boil: the chemical structure of low-fat dairy products “breaks’ under such high heat, and the curds and whey will separate.
The soup is hearty enough to eat as a meal with just a side salad, and small cups of it make an elegant appetizer. For the full effect, eat it while wrapped in a flannel blanket and make apple crisp for dessert.
Corn and Butternut Squash Chowder
Serves 4 as an entree, 8 as an appetizer
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 ½ lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped into ½-in. cubes
2 cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen
3 cups less-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. crushed red chili flakes
½ cup half-and-half or heavy cream
Fresh herbs and additional corn and cream (or plain yogurt) to garnish if desired
1. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook 1 minute more. Add squash, corn, chicken broth, and spices, stirring well to combine.
2. Cover soup and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until squash is tender, about 15 minutes. Puree the soup directly in the pot using an immersion blender. (Alternatively, carefully pour soup into a blender and puree until smooth, working in batches if necessary.) Stir in the cream and cook gently until heated through, a couple of minutes more. Garnish each bowl with fresh herbs (I like basil), corn kernels, and a splash of additional cream or plain yogurt if you like.
