Gnocchi at Graffiato. Photo by Noe Todorovich./

Dish of the Week: Gnocchi

Where: Bibiana, Graffiato, Proof

There’s something about cold temperatures that seem to stimulate the appetite. Whether it’s a way of generating warmth or packing on some extra fat for insulation, a plate of gnocchi fits the bill for a filling winter meal. These tender potato dumplings are the stuff of Italian peasant fare–simultaneously fluffy, hearty, and intensely satisfying.

Gnocchi come in many shapes and sizes, from delicate, embossed ovals to fat, pillowy squares. These rustic dumplings can be made from breadcrumbs, squash, spinach, cheese, but my favorite is potato gnocchi. The most delicate gnocchi evoke both the chewiness of wheat pasta with the softness of mashed potatoes. However, I believe that total gnocchi nirvana is actually achieved when one pan fries the dumplings after boiling, until the bottoms are caramelized with a them a slightly sweet, crunchy exterior.

Gnocchi can be dressed like any pasta with a tomato or cream sauce, but it really only takes some browned butter and cheese to let the earthy potato flavor shine through. Proof (775 G St NW) and Graffiato (707 6th St NW) both offer rotating seasonal riffs on gnocchi, usually tossed with vegetables (rapini, squash, or mushrooms on recent visits), butter, and an assertive cheese.

Small Bites

Nicely Aged
Cork Wine Bar (1720 14th St NW) turns five this Saturday and will be celebrating with special wine flights and a new brunch cocktail this weekend. If you can’t make it to the festivities, Cork will also be debuting their “Cinq à Sept” happy hour Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5 to 7 p.m. Specials will feature wines from different regions each month (currently Spain, France next month), along with accompanying small plates.

The Meatiest Time of the Year
Revel in the consumption of smoked animal flesh during D.C.’s annual Meat Week, kicking off this Sunday with dinner at Urban Bar-B-Que in Rockville. A celebration of all things barbequed, the Meat Week tour continues through February 3, with stops at Hill Country, Kangaroo Boxing Club, Mr. P’s Ribs, and more.

Get Schooled
Don’t know the difference between terroir and tannins? Vinoteca (1940 11th St NW) is launching a series of winter wine classes on Tuesdays from 7-9 p.m. Classes will cover five to six different wines and includes food pairings and a $5 gift card to the restaurant. The series will start on January 29 with cabernets, followed by bubbly and dessert wines on February 12, and chardonnays on February 19. Classes are $40 per person and can be booked by calling (202) 332-9463 or emailing wine@vinotecadc.com.