Dish of the Week: Lobster and Shrimp Spring Roll

Where: The Source

There may be snow showers in the forecast this weekend, but on Groundhog’s Day last week, Punxsutawney Phil did not see his shadow. Neither, for that matter, did Potomac Phil, Washington’s more local furry weather vane. That means only one thing—early spring!

In recognition of the start of the Year of the Snake, last week’s featured dish was Chinese dumplings. This week we’re staying in Asia and continuing our New Year’s celebration. Lunar New Year is also known as the Chinese Spring Festival, a celebration of the coming of the new season. Spring rolls, those little fried little grease tubes, are a traditional food closely associated with the festival. A filling, usually primarily of fresh vegetables symbolizing the new season, is wrapped within a wonton that is usually fried. Variations are popular across the continent—in Vietnam and Thailand you’re more likely to find a mélange of raw julienned veggies, a fresh sign of the spring or summer, wrapped in a razor thin rice crepe. The name comes from a literal translation of the Chinese words chuan (spring) and juan (roll).

In Scott Drewno’s spring rolls at The Source, you won’t find any finely chopped cabbage or a shred of carrot. In fact, there’s nary a vegetable to be found. The lobster & shrimp spring roll packs a pure seafood punch—all fresh lobster meat and pieces of shrimp, no other filler. The wrapper isn’t exactly paper thin; it’s more the thickness of resume stock paper. The rolls are cleanly tied off at each end as opposed to tucked, which adds to the elegance of the little package and eliminates overly thick and flaky first and last bites. A deft touch with the fryer yields crisp skin that sticks closely to the seafood, not the tasteless tube of grease that were most spring rolls from the Chinese delivery of my childhood. The seafood is left to shine, complemented by its crispy wrapper.

Small Bites

Ramen—And Soon to Be Jammin’
Last night saw one of D.C.’s most anticipated openings: the ground-level Sapporo-style ramen noodle shop Daikaya opened its doors to the public. (On Valentine’s Day, no less!) Ramen will be served in four styles: miso, shio (salt), shoyu (soy), and vegan. The upstairs izakaya portion of the space, or boisterous Japanese tavern, won’t launch for another month or so. Katsuya Fukushima, who ran the show for many years at Minibar, is a partner in the venture and executive chef. Daikaya is located at 705 Sixth Street NW.

Holy Holishkes at Hogo
Hogo, the rum bar down the street from The Passenger, is cooking up homestyle Jewish food for February. The food coming out of its small kitchen changes monthly. This month, Renee Peres has posted a handful of family favorites on the bar’s whiteboard: Cousin Judy’s schnitzel. Bubby’s brisket sandwich. Aunt Ida’s pickled tongue. (No, the tongue is from a cow, not from Aunt Ida). Those up for just a little nosh to go with their He’brew Rye IPA can call for a pickle platter or gribenes, Jewish food’s kosher answer to pork cracklins. (It’s fried chicken skins.) Peres, a real estate and marketing professional, cooked a Feastly Jewish soul food dinner at the pop-up Blind Dog Café last year. Her grandfather was a grocer that was part of the old District Grocery Stores cooperative from which DGS Delicatessen draws its name.

Hebrew Happy Hour
Speaking of DGS and noshes, DGS Delicatessen launched a happy hour menu this week, available Mondays through Fridays from 5-7 p.m. at the bar. Bagels and lox comes in the form of smoked salmon tartare with everything aioli and bagel crispies. (We’re eager to see exactly what fiery brisket balls with garlic yogurt sauce are.) You’ll find gribenes (served with chopped liver and rye bread) and tongue (grilled and featured in a reuben) here as well. The classics are the classics, after all. Food items run from $4 to $6, while drinks start at $3 for a can of Genessee Cream Ale. Select wines are $6 and cocktails range from $7 to $9, the most expensive being a concoction called the Pickle Back made from the said Genny ale, Jameson, and homemade pickle brine.