Dish of the Week: Cheese Pie
Where: Ambar
Ambar in Barracks Row has brought to Washington a cuisine that most people are not too familiar with (Balkan) and put a unique twist on the food (contemporary small plates). Amongst ćevapi kebabs, stuffed sour cabbage, and roasted mushroom crepes with a rich béchamel sauce, the dish my mind continually returns to when I think about the restaurant are its cheese pies.
Flaky phyllo dough wrapped around warm but not too hot, oozing white cheese mark an enticing start to a meal whether the pastry is forked, bitten into or pulled apart to eat each morsel piece by piece. Each bit can be eaten on its own or dipped into the cucumber yogurt sauce the pies sit atop of. The golden pastry is studded with bits of char where individual leaves of the phyllo dough have wandered out a little too far on their own. It’s two to an order, enough to share with a group, though I’ve found it hard to stop after eating only one. They are $6 a plate, or can be summoned from the kitchen en masse during weekend unlimited brunch, which also includes $35 for all the mimosas, Bloody Marys, and other Balkan stuff you can eat and drink.
The pastry, known as gibanica in Serbia, is one of the region’s most popular dishes. The pastry can come out sweet or savory depending on the cheese and egg mix used. Cottage cheese lends a creaminess to the filling, farmers cheese a sweetness, and feta or other salty cheese leading to a savory version like Ambar serves.
Small Bites
Merry December 24, Pass the Kasha Fried Rice
There is a great Jewish custom of spending Christmas Eve by going out for Chinese food. Perhaps a photo of this dubious handwritten sign has popped up in your Facebook feed in this or previous Decembers. Barry Koslow has spun his traditional December 24 dinner into a deli-Cantonese fusion menu he will serve at DGS (1317 Connecticut Avenue NW) on the night before Christmas. A brilliant three course menu begins with Reuben egg rolls with egg drop matzo ball soup, continues with kung pao chicken livers with pastrami lo mein, and continues with confit “Peking” duck with kasha fried rice. It’s $37 plus optional beverage pairings, a perfect meal option before heading out to the Falafel Frenzy or Matzo Ball for the night.
Pilar Alone
When Macaulay Culkin was forgotten by his family in Home Alone, he had to protect his house from burglars. And he was eight. You’re an adult and probably no one is trying to steal your crappy stuff, so you’re safe to head to Bar Pilar (1833 14th Street NW) on Sunday for Pilar Alone! A measly $25 buys access to a buffet and one free drink ticket. The bar was one of the most under the radar places for a great meal when Justin Bittner was in town. It’s a great chance to see how new executive chef Jesse Miller is doing. He is co-hosting the party along with Owen Thomson, who recently left Range to become beverage director at Pilar and Saint Ex.
Advent of Drinking
Bibiana (1100 New York Avenue NW) has been mixing up a new cocktail every night for the 25 days leading up to Christmas. Tonight is the Forte: Buffalo Trace bourbon, orange, ginger, maple, lemon. Cocktail No. 24 is the Acero Sprezzatura: Buffalo Trace, maple syrup, Nonino amaro, and orange. There’s ones without the bourbon, if that’s not your thing. Plus chef Nick Stefanelli is debuting bar snacks like crispy duck wings, pork skins with parmigiano and black truffle, and ricotta fritters to go with the cocktails.
Last Minute Holiday Gin
Know how gin gets made? Long story short, you take some vodka, you flavor it with stuff, and viola! Gin. A small Arlington family business has been marketing a gin kit where they’ll send you the equipment you need (some bottles, a strainer and funnel) and the special spice blend, and you (or the person you give the gift to, which they can get by Christmas if you order today), can make gin with it. You can tweak the botanicals to taste and there’s a special “Christmas flavored” blend available as well. Bottle of vodka not included.
The Kennedy Center, Santa, and Elf
The Kennedy Center (2700 F Street NW) is in full holiday spirit. The holiday musical Elf opened this week and runs through January 5. The Roof Terrace crew has created some special cocktails and a maple candy cane pudding pie in its honor. But no spaghetti dressed with syrup?! This Sunday is also the Roof Terrace’s last of three Santa brunches, an annual tradition for the restaurant. The massive open kitchen brunch, $45 for adults, will include St. Nick hanging out for kids to visit and give their wish lists to. Plus they only have to pay $25 for their brunch.
