West End office workers are getting a new power lunch spot, and it’s a mighty slick one at that. But Soi 38 is a far cry from the buttoned-up downtown restaurants of yore. Thai street food, golden graffiti art, a 50-seat patio, and a top-notch cocktail program are set to make Soi 38 worth a visit any hour of the day.
So what exactly is Thai street food? During a pre-opening media tour, DCist did the hard work of sampling a number of dishes and drinks for the edification of our dear readers. Owners Nat Ongsangkoon and Dia Khanthongthip wanted to develop a menu that reflected the food they ate at home, instead of the same dishes that grace the menu at practically every Thai restaurant. As a result, prospective diners will recognize some familiar names, but there will also be many new dishes for adventurous fans of Thai cuisine. Some examples: Succulent coconut milk-marinated pork belly skewers with in-house made lime chili sauce; juicy chicken folded into fragrant pandan leaves; and pad thai hor kai, a variant of pad thai swaddled in a tender egg crepe. Whole fried chicken featuring an airy, crackling crust and umami-packed dipping sauce was a particular standout. Chef Mitchai Pankham, who hails from northern Thailand, has other intriguing items planned, including ped roti (roasted duck wrapped in roti bread) and kor moo yang (grilled pork neck with lime and chili). Dishes will run $10-18 during lunch and $14-25 at dinner.
The cocktail program, developed by local mixologist J.P. Caceres, is also nothing to sneeze at. Caceres has taken the flavors of East Asia and carefully blended them into a very modern cocktail program. Bottled drinks feature riffs on classic cocktails and martinis. Smoky Chinese pu’er tea and chili bitters kick up the Thai Manhattan, while kaffir lime lends a heady, floral perfume to the Pretty Little Lime, a fresh take on a gin martini. But it’s not all serious behind the bar (there is, after all, a giant glowing dragon eye emblazoned on the wall). There are coconut-laced tiki drinks which can be ordered as a single or shared portion, complete with ridiculously long straws. Meanwhile, The Emperor’s Punch — a sweet-savory brew of tamarind syrup, lemon, whiskey, and chili bitters — is served out a blue and white tea set. Singapore Slings will also be available on tap and are likely to become a fast favorite at happy hour. For teetotalers, there will also be creative soft drinks, such as lemongrass and pineapple soda and Vietnamese-style iced coffee.
If you believe dining is a fully sensory experience, Soi 38 will not disappoint. The boldly decorated space marries slick modern lines with rustic beams, wicker basket light fixtures, and fantastical golden murals. Dragons snake across the ceiling, curling around the bar, while elephants parade over the booths lining the wall. These creatures are the work of Gaia, a Baltimore-based street artist commissioned by architecture firm Design Republica to create a transporting dining experience. A communal table and partially open kitchen are meant to give diners an additional flavor for the open air cookery common in Bangkok’s night markets.
Soi 38 is located at 2101 L Street NW and anticipates opening late this week or early next week for lunch and dinner service. The restaurant hours will be Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
