Dumplings are kind of like pizza—even when you encounter a bad dumpling, you’re still eating dumplings, so life could be a lot worse. Nonetheless, there are plenty of dumpling offenses out there, from bland or under-cooked fillings to tough, doughy wrappers. Dumplings are a staple of Chinese cookery, and they come in a number of flavors and cooking styles. Below, we tell you where to get the best versions, from boiled shui jiao to fried guo tie. That mostly means taking a trip to Rockville, a haven of good Chinese restaurants, blissfully bereft of anything involving “ping pong” paired with “dim sum.”

Photo by Alpha.

CHINA BISTRO: China Bistro, also known as Mama Shui Jiao (shui jiao means boiled dumpling in Mandarin), is the widely considered to be the ultimate source for dumplings in the D.C. Metro area. The place is jammed on the weekends, churning out plate after plate of boiled or pan-fried dumplings in 12 different flavors. Try the Mama’s Special (pork, shrimp, and vegetables), beef and celery, or shrimp and chives flavors. Notably, China Bistro’s dumpling fillings are well-seasoned and juicy, and the skins are tender and delicate. This is my preferred style of dumpling, and, in my opinion, it’s what gives them an edge over the competition. If you can’t get a seat in the small, plain-spoken dining room, raw dumplings can also be ordered to go. Be sure to either cook them at home the same day or freeze them on a cookie sheet for later.

China Bistro is located at 755 Hungerford Drive in Rockville, Md.

EAST DUMPLING HOUSE: The debate rages on over whether relative newcomer East Dumpling House makes better dumplings than China Bistro. The northern-style dumplings have a thicker, chewier wrapper, which may or may not be a selling point depending on your taste. Regardless of what camp you fall into, East Dumpling House is worth a mention for several reasons. The dumplings here are filled, sealed, and cooked to order, which means they are incredibly fresh. This also means they will require some patience on the part of the diner; if you’ve ever made any sort of stuffed pasta before, you know it’s a labor intensive process. East Dumpling House is also a better bet for vegetarians than many other restaurants on this list. Chinese dumplings are, by and large, a rather meaty affair, but East Dumpling House’s large array of flavors means more meat-free choices.

East Dumpling House is located at 12 N Washington Street in Rockville, Md.

BOB’S SHANGHAI 66: Chinese dumpling connoisseurs are well acquainted with xiao long bao or soup dumplings. For the uninitiated, xiao long bao are dumplings made with a cube of gelatinous pork stock that liquefies when the dumplings are cooked, enveloping the ground pork and shrimp filling in a tasty broth. Eating them is an art unto itself, the goal being to move the dumpling from steam tray to your mouth without puncturing it and scalding yourself with boiling hot soup. If this sounds like a fun time, get yourself to Bob’s Shanghai 66. The D.C. area only has a few spots that serve this Shanghai specialty, and Bob’s has one of the better versions around.

Bob’s Shanghai 66 is located at 305 N Washington Street in Rockville, Md.

SHANGHAI TASTE: In the great Rockville xiao long bao wars, there is Bob’s Shanghai 66 in one corner, and Shanghai Taste in the other. Yes, that’s right, Rockville has enough Chinese food that people can fight over who has the better special soup dumpling. As a District resident and dumpling lover, I can only dream of such things. Shanghai Taste’s xiao long bao may be a strong contender against Bob’s, but be warned: the good stuff (including the dumplings) is on the Chinese language version of the menu, making this place a potential non-starter for those without some lexical skills.

Shanghai Taste is located at 1121 Nelson Street in Rockville, Md.

JOE’S NOODLE HOUSE: Chinese cuisine is regional, and these variations in flavors and preparations can also be seen in the country’s dumplings. At Joe’s, order the Sichuan-style dumplings (hong you chao shou), listed at wontons in red hot sauce on the menu. These slippery, pork-filled dumplings come doused in an oily chili sauce. Picking them up with chopsticks can be a challenge, but you’ll be rewarded by a pleasantly spicy and vinegary treat. It’s a nice change of pace from the usual soy-based dipping sauces that usually dress Chinese dumplings.

Joe’s Noodle House is located at 1488 Rockville Pike in Rockville, Md.

TOKI UNDERGROUND: While I usually don’t order an appetizer before I eat a giant bowl of pork fat ramen at Toki, I’ll take one for the team and order some of the delicious dumplings. Of the choices, I go with pork (instead of beef, chicken, vegetables or seafood) and pan-fried (instead of fried and streamed). Crispy, bite-sized and made just salty enough by the dipping sauce. —Sarah Anne Hughes

Toki Underground is located at 1234 H Street NE.

SICHUAN JIN RIVER: Sichuan Jin River is another solid place to get Sichuan-style dumplings. There are numerous wonton options here, in spicy oil or broth, as well as the crescent moon-shaped zhong dumplings. In all cases, the best part is the bright orange, spicy sauce. Sichuan food is known for it’s heat, and there’s something super satisfying about the warming combination of chili, soy, vinegar, and sugar that coats these puppies. Don’t limit yourself though; some of these restaurants only excel at dumplings, but I’d recommend most things on the menu here.

Sichuan Jin River is located at 410 Hungerford Drive in Rockville, Md.

A&J RESTAURANT: Do you want to eat all the different regional varieties of dumpling described on this list all in one place? Then head to one of the two A&J Restaurant outposts in Maryland or Virginia. The Taiwanese chain specializes in dim sum or small snacks (think of it like Chinese tapas, if you must). On the menu you’ll find the aforementioned xiao long bao, guo tie (juicy little fried pork potstickers), steamed beef and veggie dumplings (zheng jiao), and even Sichuan wontons in chili oil (hong you chao shou). The prices are reasonable, but be sure to bring cash because they don’t take credit cards.

A&J has locations at 1319 Rockville Pike in Rockville, Md. and 4316 Markham Street in Annandale, Va.

THE SOURCE: The Source is an upscale send-up to Chinese fusion cuisine. Normally I get nervous when the word “fusion” is used anywhere near “food” in a sentence, but chef Scott Drewno really does the flavors justice. While not perfectly authentic, the dumplings at The Source are undeniably indulgent. Like everything on the menu, these dumplings are bold, from delicate pork belly dumplings with piquant black vinegar to fragrant garlic chive dumplings with sweet king crab and kurobuta pork.

The Source is located at 575 Pennsylvania Avenue NW.