A new fast casual concept arrived in Washington last week with the opening of GRK on 19th Street NW, just a few doors down from Greek Deli & Catering. A line snaked far out the door from that beloved lunch spot last week as I walked past it to a preview lunch at GRK, which also serves gyros. But that’s about where the similarities end. GRK’s menu largely begins and ends with the spit-roasted sandwich.

“Not gyro but yeero,” GRK partner Alex Alveras will correct. “Authentic. How it’s done in Greece throughout the years.”

Stacks of a seasoned beef and lamb combination, pork shoulder and chicken spin slowly behind the counter. While the beef/lamb nexus may be popular here, Alveras’ partner and brother-in-law Peter Psaromatis points out that around 70 percent of gyro in Greece is done with pork. The menu is simple. You choose your meat and one of three tzatziki sauces as well as a side if you opt for a plate instead of a sandwich. Each sandwich gets a cursory inclusion of some tomato and onion slices. But it’s the Greek seasoned meat that’s emphasized; a sandwich here is basically two fistfuls of of the shaved, crispy meat wrapped in the bread.

The customization down the line concept, seen at Chipotle, Shophouse, Cava, Roti and other places, is only partially present here. A few more fun topping choices would enhance the experience, like a chance to add some of their seasoned fries, feta cheese, or other creative additions while staying true enough to the aim to keep things authentic. Your only customization choice, beyond picking a meat, is which of the three thick tzatzikis will be rolled into your pita. As they are, the kaftero could be more peppery, the fire-roasted habanero peppers offering a pinkish tinge to the spread but only barely coming through The garlic in the prasino could also be a bit more intense.

The partners behind GRK are enthusiastic about bringing authentic Greek street food to Washington. As Alveras tells it, “All these years people have been eating this gyro which is actually this processed meat,” which may not necessarily be the case. Sure you can find those gross meat strips in places, but this isn’t the first real gyro rotisserie spit to land stateside.

Same thing with the the fresh and frozen yogurt bar labeled “unlike anything you’ve ever tasted.” Thick Greek yogurt and its tangy frozen version are now common. The authentic toppings on the other hand are a bit unexpected. The Corfu, a fresh yogurt specialty, is topped with basil, apples, figs, lentils, sea salt, and olive oil. I included chunks of fig and rose petal preserves, imported from Greece, in my dessert cup.

The thick gobs of jelly were a transporting experience. I imagine there’s not so many tapioca pearls and Captain Crunch cereal at the toppings bars in Athens.

GRK
1140 19th Street NW