At Bistro d’Oc. Photo by Josh Novikoff.
Dish of the Week: French Onion Soup
Where: Bistro d’Oc, Central, Le Diplomate, Bistro du Coin, Bistro Bis, pretty much anywhere with “Bistro” in its name
The charred bubbles on the protective layer of cheese. Breaching said layer with your spoon. The gooey brief burn the hot cheese unleashes on your tongue. Lifting out a bite of once crusty, now broth soaked bread. Back to the best part, the cheese, and peeling what’s left of it off the sides of a timeless brown and tan earthenware crock.
These are the pleasures of French onion soup. Or as it’s called at Bistro d’Oc (and we’re guessing in France) onion soup gratinée. Add caramelized onions to a rich broth, usually but not always beef broth, and you’ve got yourself an onion soup. The French part comes in by sticking in a toasted piece of bread — or crouton if you will — and melting a handful of Gruyere cheese overflowing from the top of the bowl.
Bistro d’Oc (518 10th Street NW) on the touristy Ford’s Theater block in downtown D.C. hits all the classic notes of the working class dish in their modest tin ceiling, red-walled dining room. There’s plenty of cheese to be pulled from the ramekin sides. Central (1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW) goes for a slightly more refined tact with a garnish of chives on a less burnt covering of cheese. And the cheese isn’t loping over the rim of the bowl; it stays in its boundary, getting pushed into the broth upon each bite. Perhaps peeling cheese remnants off your bowl while out in public isn’t entirely dignified? But for some that’s the best part of the dish. I made sure the dishwashers at Bistro d’Oc didn’t have much scrubbing to do on my finished bowl. It was sent back clean.
Small Bites
Shuffling Chefs at the Park Hyatt
Chef Sebastian Archambault has departed Washington, having been sent by the Park Hyatt to take over the restaurant at their new five star property in New York. It seems the contracted chef quit before the opening of The Back Room at One57 and Archambault was called up abruptly to replace him. Ryan LaRoche is taking over as executive chef at the Park Hyatt Washington (1201 24th Street NW), which includes Blue Duck Tavern. LaRoche comes by way of the Park Hyatt Chicago where he helped its restaurant NoMi win a Michelin star in 2011. Brad Deboy has been promoted as chef de cuisine of Blue Duck Tavern.
Pouillon to be Roasted, Like a Cauliflower
Veggie-restaurateur Nora Pouillon will be the [no pork] butt of kind-hearted [celery] ribbing at an inaugural Chef Roast benefiting the Chef Action Network. Patrick O’Connell, Robert Egger and Carla Hall are local representatives along with national food world luminaries that will take to the stage to honor Pouillon. The big ticket event — admission is $300 — will be catered by the likes of Cathal Armstrong, Scott Drewno, Haidar Karoum, Mike Isabella and John Mooney, among others. According to organizers, the feast will be “Nora inspired.” The Chef Action Network works with chefs to advocate for policies that support health, nutrition, and sustainability. The event will take place on Tuesday, September 22 at Union Market (1309 5th Street NE).
Ten Years of Tapas
A figurative trip through Spain could be just around the corner, as Jaleo Crystal City (2250 Crystal Drive) prepares to celebrate its 10-year anniversary by taking guests on a journey through Chef José Andrés native country. On Wednesday, September 24 from 5 to 9 p.m. the restaurant will be transformed into a festive Spanish market featuring authentic Spanish tapas, hands-on demonstrations and live entertainment. Stops include Barcelona’s make-your-own Montadito station, complete with a whole leg of jamón ibérico and lessons for drinking from aporrón. The Valencia station features live preparations of paella and the region’s proprietary cocktail, Agua de Valencia. All-inclusive tickets are $35, and can be purchased through nvite, a Crystal City-based start-up. And if you need a philanthropic boost, $5 from each ticket sold will be donated to José Andrés charity,World Central Kitchen. —Jordan Anthony-Brown
A Pirate’s Life in Arlington
Today is “Talk Like a Pirate Day.” In celebration, Heavy Seas Alehouse in Arlington (1501 Wilson Boulevard) is offering special promotions throughout the day, all leading up to the alehouse looking to break a world record for largest number of casks tapped simultaneously. Mention the holiday, and you’ll have the chance to collect some Jack Sparrow-worthy pirate swag: receive $1 off the Arrrrlington Burger, enjoy pirate-inspired menu items (such as a gigantic turkey leg), and enter to win two tickets for a Baltimore brewery bus tour. The cask-tapping attempt is at at 6 p.m. —Jordan Anthony-Brown
One Good Pop-Up Deserves Another
Chef Tim Ma is paying homage to his Uncle Paul at Water & Wall (3811 N. Fairfax Drive), and wants you to enjoy his uncle’s signature Chinese dishes that influenced the chef and his cooking. Available through September 30, Uncle Paul Ma’s Kitchen Lunch Pop-Up (available Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. until 2 p.m.), features dishes such as Kung Pao Pork Belly, Lump Crab Fried Rice, and Cilantro Jalapeno Salad, as well as signature cocktails like the Kitty with the Moving Hand (strawberries, lychee, vermouth, and sparkling wine).
And if one pop-up wasn’t enough to satisfy you, Water and Wall will officially launch its new quarterly Chesapeake Watershed Lunch Pop-Up beginning on October 1, featuring fresh, local and seasonal ingredients based on collaborations with local farms. The menu will feature a variety of seasonal dishes such as fried oyster with remoulade and cornbread, Virginia peanut soup with country ham, and Brunswick stew with chicken, corn and lima beans. —Jordan Anthony-Brown
A Block Party on King Street
On Saturday, October 3, Jackson 20 and Hotel Monaco Alexandria (480 King Street) host Soil & Soul, a block party fundraiser benefiting the Old Town Farmers’ Market’s SNAP/EBT Double Dollar Program. The evening will feature seasonal bites from Alexandria restaurants using produce from the farmers’ market vendors and a cash bar. Advance tickets are available for $35 through Eventbrite. $25 from each ticket goes to the Market’s SNAP dollar matching program. —Jordan Anthony-Brown
