By DCist contributor Josh Kramer

As promised, this month features something a little messier. DCity Smokehouse (8 Florida Avenue NW) has its roots in Texas barbecue, and Chef Rob Sonderman helped open Hill Country in Penn Quarter.

When I visited for Customer Appreciation Day last month, the tiny, mostly take-away spot was celebrating one year of operation with free pork sliders and old school hip hop.

I had the Smokehouse Meat Platter with brisket and chopped pork. I’m no native Texan, but I’ve been to hill country in Central Texas and eaten at the Salt Lick in Driftwood. Now DCity may not have a roaring fire pit going 24 hours a day, but what they’re doing in near North Capitol Street tastes shocking similar to the real deal.

The real treat is the beef brisket, which is smoked for 14 to 16 hours and has a beautiful bright pink “smoke ring” right below the black char “bark” on the outside. The texture of the interior is like sponge cake, and the outside is sweet and caramelized. The house barbecue sauce is peppery and not too hot, and the buttery toast on the side is perfect.

Illustration by Josh Kramer.