There are beer dinners, there are wine dinners, but very rarely does one come across a gin dinner. It’s a shame, because gin is a wonderfully versatile spirit. This range was on full display during Tuesday’s Green Hat Gin Dinner at Roofers Union (2446 18th St NW). The restaurant will be hosting one more gin dinner on March 31 with a few tickets ($65) still remaining.
Diners can expect to walk away with a new appreciation for the spirit, as Green Hat (1832 Fenwick St NE) co-founder Michael Lowe provides historical context, Prohibition tales, and details on how they make each edition of Green Hat.
Fans of Green Hat already know that the local distillery makes their gins a bit outside of the norm. While many renditions are heavy on the juniper, Green Hat’s signature version is spicy and “savory,” infused with sage, coriander, and citrus. Their winter varietal channels Scandinavian aquavit with the introduction of caraway, while the spring and summer variety is lighter and floral, steeped with rosehips, rose petals, pomelo, and even cherry blossoms. The new Navy Strength variety packs a serious punch from ginger and a high ABV—watch out, it’ll sneak up on you.
The gins are showcased in four deft pairings. Stand-outs include succulent gin-cured hamachi tuna topped with nutty puffed wild rice and a hail of parsley and tarragon. The herbal, slightly licorice-y flavors play nicely with the accompanying aperitif, a twist on a Negroni made with funky gentian root liquor and topped with lemon verbena, echoing the lemon sauce served with the fish. For dessert, apricot and cardamom flavors bring out the warmth in Green Hat’s winter varietal, providing a pleasant foil to a wonderfully fragrant Meyer lemon meringue pie.
All the courses and drink pairings are thoughtful; some combinations, like putting celery in a cocktail, are unexpected—but they work. The detailed explanations from Lowe, Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley, and beverage director Dave Delaplaine throughout the meal also help the average diner get into the mindset of a chef or bartender. Regardless of your status as a total gin noob or a cocktail aficionado, there’s enough going on at this dinner to keep all palates interested.
