Vadouvan roasted red snapper (Elizabeth Traynor).
By DCist Contributor Elizabeth Traynor
Ardeo + Bardeo (3311 Connecticut Avenue NW) is far from new to the D.C. restaurant scene. But what is new is the man inside the Cleveland Park outpost’s kitchen. Newly appointed executive chef Jonathan Dearden’s resume includes stops in Florida, Saint Lucia and New York, and at a recent media dinner, he told DCist that all of those cuisines influence the new menu at Ardeo + Bardeo.
Though an expanse of cultural influences were evident across the night’s dishes, one clear theme was threaded throughout. Dearden preferred to let the natural flavors of each of his ingredients shine through, a restraint that brought a fresh, summer-warmed feel to the plate.
Heirloom tomato salad (Elizabeth Traynor).
The heirloom tomato salad was a standout dish. The tomatoes, grown on Ardeo + Bardeo’s rooftop garden, brought a hint of sweetness that contrasted nicely with a savory whipped goat cheese sauce. Hidden among the fruit was a tiny sprinkling of almond brittle—just enough to lend an attractive crunch to the salad.
Surf and turf both earned a slot on the tasting menu. The vadouvan roasted red snapper was cooked with a slight crisp on the outside, though the star of that dish was a delicate corn puree accompanying it.
Wagyu beef bavette steak (Elizabeth Traynor).
The wagyu beef bavette steak was cooked to a perfect medium rare, served atop a crispy fingerling potato side. Dearden added his own spin to the classic “meat and potatoes” dish with an accompanying crispy bone marrow. He described it as sort of bone marrow custard, and once the shell was sliced, its soft interior formed a rich sauce for the meat.
Dessert was a return to bright, seasonal flavors. Across the four sweet offerings, the tangy and refreshing orange and vanilla gelato was popular (and light enough to enjoy after the heavy steak course). And not to be missed is the blueberry tart, bursting with fruit, light on crust and a pure, uncomplicated summer pastry, just the way it should be.
