Aushak at Lapis (Alicia Mazzara).
Dish of the Week: Aushak
Where: Lapis, Afghan Grill, Faryab, Bamian
It seems that nearly every culinary tradition has their own contribution to the dumpling pantheon. And while potstickers and pierogi may be more familiar, lesser known varieties are equally deserving of our gustatory attention. With the temps cooling, consider carving out some time to track down a plate of aushak, an Afghani dumpling stuffed with scallions and topped with yogurt and meat sauce.
Growing up, my parents would drag me kicking and screaming to the one Afghani restaurant in our town. All the food tasted strange to my childhood palate, unaccustomed to strongly flavored meats like lamb or fragrant spices like cardamom. Aushak was the first Afghani dish I made peace with, because it reminded me of ravioli with bolognese sauce.
Aushak is indeed kind of like an inside-out ravioli situation. While many dumplings are filled with meat, aushak turns this equation on its head. The meat is all in the sauce; the dumplings themselves are packed with tender sautéed scallions or leeks. The result is pleasantly filling but not heavy.
D.C. doesn’t have many Afghani restaurants, but you can try aushak at Lapis (1847 Columbia Road NW) in the recently converted Napoleon space or at the Afghan Grill (2309 Calvert Street NW) in Woodley Park. And for the suburbanites, look for aushak at Faryeb (4917 Cordell Avenue in Bethesda, Md.) and Bamian (5634 Leesburg Pike in Falls Church, Va.) where the dumplings are topped with homemade yogurt.
Small Bites
Workin’ on my night meats
The Partisan (709 D Street NW) is launching a new late night menu starting on Monday. The offerings read like a drunk carnivore’s wet dream, from chorizo corndogs and chicken parm nuggets to a bologna sandwich and pepperoni pizza rolls fried in beef fat. The cocktail selection is equally reminiscent of childhood, with a bourbon milk punch and apple juice spiked with brandy, amaro, and lemon. The late night menu will be available until 11 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on weekends.
Breakfast, now with 100 percent more dancing
GBD (1323 Connecticut Avenue NW) is making a foray into the nightlife world with a monthly Disco + Donuts party, kicking off this Saturday at 9 p.m. Donuts will be on special for two for one, and drink deals include a strawberry watermelon tequila punch for $5. The bar will also debut a new cocktail at each monthly party: this time it’s the Blanche Deveroux, a gin and grapefruit send up to everyone’s favorite Golden Girl.
Bottoms up
Celebrate America’s workers with some serious bottomless brunch action next Monday. Ambar, Masa 14, El Centro DF, El Centro DF Georgetown, and Zengo will be serving their bottomless brunch deals on Labor Day, which includes an endless stream of small plates and drinks for $35-$39 per person.
Feelin’ crabby
Spend Labor Day getting your Old Bay fix at City Tap House’s (901 9th Street NW) Crab Fest. From 2-6 p.m. diners can order Maryland blue crabs by the dozen or half dozen along with Old Bay-dusted fries washed down with Flying Dog’s Dead Rise Ale. If you’re not ready for the full Maryland experience, there will also be plenty of Old Bay-free beers and sides available.
