Dish of the Week: Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Where: Ghibellina, Dino’s Grotto
Michelangelo’s David. And massive t-bone steaks.
Florence, Italy is the home of perhaps the world’s most famous statue. But if the 17-foot statue of the biblical hero was in fact a flesh and blood man, the toned giant would still probably have trouble finishing off the chop that takes its name from the Tuscan city.
The t-bone steak incorporates tenderloin filet on one side of the bone and strip steak on the other (New York strip to you, but not when you’re in Italy). Porterhouse signifies a larger portion of the tender filet because it’s cut closer to the rear of the cow. When you’re talking Tuscany, the porterhouse cut must be gargantuan. Cuts should be at least one-and-half inches thick, though closer to two or three is more appropriate, weighing in between two and four pounds when put on the grill.
On the buzzing 14th Street NW corridor, diners crowd into Ghibellina (1610 14th Street NW) for the pizzas delivered with shears to cut your way through the crust. The restaurant, inspired by owner Ari Gedjdenson’s days in Florence, also happens to be the go-to place in D.C. if you’re looking for bistecca alla Fiorentina. A 45-ounce porterhouse is grilled, seasoned with garlic and rosemary-infused olive oil, and served with slices carved off from the giant t-bone they cooked on. Squeezes of lemon provide a final accent for the meat that is meant for two and could certainly serve four or five, especially with a pizza or two thrown in.
One kilo cuts of bistecca alla Fiorentina also make their way onto the menu at Dino’s Grotto (1914 9th Street NW) on occasion.
Small Bites
Chefs for Equality
Chefs for Equality is on October 20 at the Ritz Carlton. Local food columnist and organizer David Hagedorn started the annual tasting gala with a who’s who lineup of chef talent four years ago to raise money for marriage equality and the work of the Human Rights Campaign. It now may well be the biggest night on the cooking-for-charity event circuit. Tickets are $200, or $50 for the after party.
Espita Mezcaleria Pop-Up
Espita Mezcaleria (1250 9th Street NW) is readying for a Shaw opening in December. On November 9, they will welcome diners to two seatings during a pop-up evening at Dolcezza Gelato Factory (550 Penn Street NW). The four course dinner will feature the three m’s of Oaxacan cuisine: masa, mole, and mescal. Dishes will be paired with a complementary pour of a Mexican spirit. Tickets are $75.
Oyamel’s Day of the Dead
José Andrés’ popular Penn Quarter Mexican restaurant celebrates their Day of the Dead festival with a party on Monday night, October 19. Tickets are $49 all-inclusive for the Dio de los Muertos kick-off at Oyamel (401 7th Street NW), which will feature the small bites and cocktails that will be served through Halloween. Check out our coverage from last year here. And Andrés has passed along a discount code for DCist readers to use for $5 off opening night tickets based on my name. Use code: jnovikoff.
Takoda Opening in December
Takoda Restaurant and Beer Garden (715 Florida Avenue NW) has announced an anticipated early-December opening. The theme is American, their patriotism on display by featuring 24 American draft beers and over 50 American whiskeys. Nothing will be imported, according to Ryan Seelbach, who is opening the space with Eric Lund. The food menu also comes with chef Damian Brown’s twist on Americana with PB&J barbecue wings and a bacon-infused burger. An all-season rooftop space can accommodates 120 guests. The name Takoda is a Native American name meaning friend to everyone.
Earl’s Kitchen + Bar
The Tyson’s Center development near one of the Silver Line Metro stations has a new corporate, upscale casual dining room. Earl’s Kitchen + Bar (7902 Tysons One Place, Tysons Corner, VA), a popular Canadian chain, has a small and growing U.S. portfolio that now includes this spot in Northern Virginia, with the restaurant officially opening today. It’s a “little bit of everything” type of place, their website listing a Santa Fe chicken salad, jeera chicken curry, and royale with cheese burger among the restaurants most popular items. There also are truffle fries and yam fries. Maybe they like saying yam instead of sweet potato in Canada? But where’s the poutine?
