Madras curry cauliflower with green lentils and spaghetti squash from Ris.

Photo by Travis Mitchell.

Dish of the Week: Roasted Cauliflower

Where: Ris, Tico

Cauliflower has grown into a centerpiece of veggie-centric menu options. Its white florets have come a long way from the boiling, steaming, or even melt-some-cheddar cheesing of your youth.

In our second stab at the best sandwiches in D.C., roasted cauliflower was a category unto itself. The versions from G Sandwich Shop and from Taylor Gourmet were both so good that we couldn’t declare one a winner. Both tied for the top spot in our assessment.

Roasting a whole head of cauliflower has become a trend. Instead of chopping the cruciferous vegetable up, the lot can be left whole, shoved into the oven, and carved up as an elegant side or even a meal’s main event.

At a D.C. Restaurant Week preview luncheon earlier this week, two of the afternoon’s participating restaurants featured cauliflower. Tico’s florets are complemented with a creaminess that comes from cojita cheese and chipotle aioli, and complemented with an unexpected crunch from a finishing with fava beans.

Ris Lacoste’s curried cauliflower is a mainstay side dish on the menu at her West End restaurant Ris. Served on a bed of spaghetti squash and green lentils, the crowns get a treatment of madras curry powder and accents of pomegranate seeds, raisins, mint, lemon, honey, and Greek yogurt.

Small Bites

After Hours Dining at Olivia’s Diner
Olivia’s Diner (1120 19th Street NW) has taken a big step up towards addressing the city’s late night dining needs. Since opening the diner had hoped to get as close as it could to being a 24 hour operation. On Fridays the kitchen will stay open all night and through brunch, not shutting things down until 5 p.m. Saturday. That will give the staff a chance for the staff to get some rest and come back at 2 a.m Sunday morning, as D.C.’s nightlife is winding down for another middle of the night service. The late night menu will be limited to select items such as burgers and breakfast foods.

Top Chef Collaborative Dinner
Top Chef-philes can head to Ripple (3417 Connecticut Avenue) on January 27 for a collaborative dinner from the two local stars from this season’s competition. Marjorie Meek-Bradley and Kwame Onwuachi will combine forces to serve a seven course tasting menu at Meek-Bradley’s Cleveland Park restaurant. Tiffany MacIssac of Buttercream Bakeshop will supply the dessert. Tickets for the event will run you around $150.

Obama’s Salted Caramel Mocha and Bush’s Jolt of Joy
A new independent coffee shop is open downtown serving “a side of satire” with its Compass Coffee drinks. At 1301 K Street NW, Roasted’s kitschy, Washington-themed menu makes for a great read. Presidential candidates each have a sickly, sweet special named after them. See the Santorum Shortcake Latte—”is this raspberry, almond & vanilla trio the name of Santorum’s wife’s stripper name or a delicious caffeinated beverage?”

Turkish Heritage Dinners at Ankara
Ankara (1320 19th Street NW) has announced a Crossroads dinner series that will showcase not only Turkish food traditions but also that of the country’s regional neighbors. A Georgian dinner on February 3 will feature a four course menu from Georgia’s Adjara region—known for its close connection with Turkey—and Georgian wines for $65 inclusive. March will bring a menu from Turkey’s Anatolian regions, and in April the restaurant will transform to host a traditional Meyhane style dinner with tables grouped in long rows, roaming musicians, and a feast of meze, salads, fish dishes, regional wine, and raki.

The Source and ANXO Cider team up
On Thursday, January 21, The Source (575 Pennsylvania Avenue NW) and soon-to-open ANXO Cidery & Pinxtos Bar (300 Florida Avenue NW) will team up for happy hour. Taking place at The Source from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., the host will serve their dumpling and wok dishes, the guest will serve their Basque inspired small bites, and the two will also pair up for some fusion creations like a morcilla steamed bao with Sichuan pickle and char siu pork crostini with boquerones.

Restaurant Week Commeth
The time is near for Winter Restaurant Week. From January 25 to 31, Washington area restaurants will offer $22 lunches and $35 dinners.This year’s week will also feature a diner rewards program where diners that reserve tables through the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s website can win prizes such as weekend getaways and restaurant gift cards.