Dish of the Week: Hake Tots

Where: Drift on 7th

The tots at the newly-opened Drift on 7th are not of the tater variety. Tots ‘N’ Tentacles is the first item listed on the new Shaw seafood restaurant’s menu. Mixed alongside with calamari—the ubiquitous fried seafood of choice on small plate sections everywhere—slightly bigger than bite-sized pieces of hake tots are interspersed with the squid in a paper lined basket. A spicy mayo and a horseradish remoulade are offered for your dipping pleasure.

Fish like this in a plate of frito misto di mare or fried seafood platter is a lot more delicate than the ocean-based cousins with which they’re often served. Whole little critters like shrimp, scallops, and tiny fish that are fried whole, like smelts, are easier to pick up, and are typically a little stronger in flavor. A white fish like hake, cod, haddock, or pollack is far less toothsome and milder in flavor. The texture is an almost cloud-like counterpoint in such a seafood basket. The tots give the satisfaction of grabbing and biting into a morsel of flaky white fish, held together only by its breading.

Hawthorne on U Street Begins Dinner
A new four-level, 6,500 square foot restaurant with a retractable glass roof is now open for dinner service on U Street. Hawthorne has been open at 1336 U Street NW—the tall and narrow space Tabaq Bistro occupied for several years—since December. Food will be made by Dorothy “Dot” Steck, who previously helmed the kitchen at El Camino in Bloomingdale.

Quarter + Glory
Also fresh on the scene at the corner of 14th and U, cocktail bar Quarter+Glory is now serving drinks at 2017 14th Street NW, where Jin Lounge used to be. The concept comes from Public House Collective, operator of a pair of New York City nightlife spots. No televisions here. The focus is on old-timey drinking with craft and classic cocktails and shots of whiskey. The name and several cocktails are inspired by playwright Eugene O’ Neill.

Historic Food at Occidental
Occidental Grill & Seafood (1475 Pennsylvania Ave NW), one of Washington’s oldest restaurants, will celebrate its 110th birthday this year by paying homage to classic dishes of years past. Over the next 12 months, the historic restaurant will use Thursdays to feature an old school dish and a cocktail. February kicks off with contemporary spins on Veal Oscar and the Brandy Alexander cocktail.

Get a noodle on at Ramen World 2
Mess Hall (703 Edgewood St NE) is bringing back Ramen World, an all-you-can-slurp event on February 28. A $65 ticket ($110 VIP) gets you two hours of unlimited ramen and beer from Toki Underground, Yona, Daikaya (including a sneak peek at their forthcoming Bantam King restaurant), and more. There will also be desserts from Toli Moli and SnoCream. Guests can buy tickets for two different noodle eating rounds at either noon or 4 p.m.