Shouk (pronounced “shook”) is already shaking things up in D.C.’s fast-casual scene. With its small interior, which is attractively designed but doesn’t make particularly good use of space (we see you, decorative burlap sacks of legumes and artfully arranged wooden crates), stepping inside Shouk is initially reminiscent of entering other new eateries of this category. Pay attention, though, and you realize some similarities are only surface deep.
Consider the counter where you order your food. Cold toppings are prepped and displayed in bins in the usual fashion, but cooked vegetables, which make up the bulk of each order (Shouk’s menu is 100 percent plant-based, although it’s not immediately evident), are nowhere to be seen. Most of them are cooked to order to ensure freshness (those that require precooking, like roasted cauliflower, are stored in a pull-out warming drawer)
Focusing on Israeli street food, the 24-seat restaurant (with 12 additional outdoor seats coming once the permit clears) is the project of Ran Nussbacher, who hails from the coastal Israeli town of Netanya, and executive chef Dennis Friedman, an alum of the kitchens of Michel Richard, Allan Wong, and Daniel Bouloud.
While not perfect, certain things at Shouk consistently call for attention. Roasted cauliflower served with tomato, scallion, tahina, and jalapeño oil ($9.75) is a standout dish, texturally invigorating and sumptuous in its creaminess. The pita, which Nussbacher says is shipped in from a “pita specialist” in New York City and finished in their own ovens, is pillowy yet firm. The tahina, which forms the basis for many of the sauces and sides, is specially imported by Shouk and is the best I’ve ever sampled.
The dips (all $4.50), in particular, are noteworthy. Hummus, deeply flavored by that magical tahina, is velvety and almost custard-like. Nussbacher says this is because dried chickpeas are boiled to the point where fibrous skins can be easily skimmed off the surface of the water, and because the hummus is never refrigerated. Beet tahina is, somehow, greater than the sum of its parts, elevating the root vegetable into something that could be a daily habit, while cashew labneh is rich, tangy, and disturbingly close to its dairy doppelganger, a trick achieved by fermenting the cashews prior to pureeing.
Still, the restaurant is merely weeks old, and some items may need further tweaking. Pita sandwiches might be on the small side for some appetites, though they are heartier when ordered as the rice and lentil bowl versions ($9.75 regardless of choice). Lentil patties ($4.50) served with tomato tahina (which pales in comparison to its beet cousin) are thin and dried out. Rosemary lemonade ($2.50) offers a nice conceptual twist, but it lacks sweetness. Conversely, “Almond Delight” ($4.00), made with fresh almonds and not extract, is almost dessert-like. The Spice Market soda ($3.75) is an excellent compromise, spicy, sweet, and curiously refreshing.
Linger amidst the crates and you’ll also find the “Shouk Pantry”, a small, living museum of imported food items available for purchase. That same incredible tahina is there ($7.50), as is Shouk’s proprietary spice blend ($4.50) and a variety of other products. Nussbacher recommends the harissa in particular ($11), made by an Israeli couple in Brooklyn under the name NYSHUK.
Visit Shouk and you’ll likely find yourself there again, and soon after. Dips and pita bread are outstanding, and food is served fresh, well-cooked, and well-seasoned. Service is attentive and fast. And vegetables, treated with respect, will show even the most dedicated of carnivores that meat-free dining can truly satisfy.
Shouk is located at 655 K Street NW; 202,652-1464. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Dine-in/takeout. Street parking. Metro: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St. Convention Center. Cash/credit. Lunch or dinner for one, $10-14.
