Taylor Gourmet’s Memphis Raines hoagie is the perfect mash-up between Philly and Nashville. (Illustration by Josh Kramer)
by DCist contributor Josh Kramer
Who needs a cellphone camera when you have a pen and paper? Drawn to Flavor highlights local dishes and drinks in vivid watercolor. In these posts, Illustrator and journalist Josh Kramer tries to honor all the energy and creativity that goes into making food beautiful and delicious. This is his last column.
Recently, I was so delighted by a seasonal menu change that I surprised even myself with my enthusiasm. Like a McDonald’s fan fiending for the return of the McRib, the return of my favorite local sandwich to Taylor Gourmet had me counting the hours until lunchtime. Say hello (again) to the Memphis Raines.
In a collaboration with Dirty South Deli, a food truck and longtime pop-up in the cafeteria at the National Museum of Women in the Arts, the sandwich brings the Southern tradition of the hot chicken sandwich straight out of Nashville, combining it with Taylor’s sometimes adventurous interpretations of classic Philly hoagies.
The Memphis Raines, which was first available in February 2015, is a chicken breast (breaded or grilled) coated with Crystal hot sauce, then topped with cucumbers, kale slaw, red onions, gorgonzola cheese, and a black pepper Parmesan dressing. It actually has more than a little in common with its namesake, Nic Cage’s character in “Gone in 60 Seconds”: both are salty, crunchy, and leave a strong, lingering flavor.
I’ve had a hard time pinpointing exactly why I love this sandwich so much. It might be the bread, once famously imported daily from Philadelphia, and now made locally with great attention to detail. Or it might be what a brilliant collaboration this sandwich is, between two innovative and creative local food brands. But it probably has more to do with the fact that I love hoagies — and Taylor Gourmet.
In September I move to Ann Arbor, Michigan, to start a journalism fellowship, so this is my last Drawn to Flavor. I don’t mind telling you my most shameful secret as a food blogger: I eat at Taylor Gourmet at least once a week. I’m from the Philly area, and Taylor’s hoagies remind me of home. Even the weirder ones.
And indeed, this is one of the things I’ve learned while writing and drawing this column: food can be highly personal and emotionally charged. I’ve realized that a lot of my favorite memories are centered around eating and drinking with friends, from the extremely fancy to the casual and delightfully messy. Another is that not everything makes a good watercolor. No matter how tasty, a meal that’s all brown just doesn’t look great.
DCist readers, it has been a pleasure drawing and writing for you, and while there are many kinds of food I didn’t get to (I love Indian and Ethiopian, I swear!), I’m proud of these 19 columns. If you’re interested in seeing some of the original watercolors, they’ll be on view at the Kit & Ace in Shaw through the end of July. I hope you’ll take a look, and keep in touch down the road to keep me up to date on what food you’re really loving around town.
Taylor Gourmet has locations all over the D.C. area; taylorgourmet.com
