Cheesy hot gougères from Central Michel Richard — betcha can’t eat just one. (Photo by Joy Asico)
Dish of the week: Gougères
Where to get it: Central Michel Richard, L’Hommage Bistro, The Sovereign, Garrison
The coming week is shaping up to be très Français. July 14 is Bastille Day, a marking of one of the French Revolution’s biggest moments and a particularly popular holiday here in D.C., which has been strongly influenced by the French dating back to L’Enfant. Adding to that, the French men’s national soccer team has advanced to the European Cup final against Portugal, a match that will be played this Sunday at 3 p.m.
Celebrating France with baguettes, crèpes, and wine is all good—but perhaps a little expected. There’s another French snack that’s been gaining popularity in D.C. recently: the warm, cheesy, airy gougère. Essentially a cheese puff or a kind of cheesy spherical croissant, gougères are served as appetizers. And if there are two things France knows, it’s bread and cheese — so you know these have got to be good.
The pastries, which originate from Burgundy, are usually made with gruyère or Swiss cheese, giving them a rich, slightly nutty flavor. However, the basic gougère recipe can be easily tinkered with, and that’s the case at some of the D.C. restaurants offering them on their menus.
The Belgian kitchen at The Sovereign (1206 Wisconsin Avenue NW) adds baked ham with cheese ($7), while Garrison (524 8th Street SE) bakes a poppyseed variation ($8). L’Hommage Bistro (450 K Street NW) in Mt. Vernon Square fills its to the brim with cheesy Mornay sauce and celeriac salad ($8.50). At Central (1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW), Chef Michel Richard rolls out a near textbook definition that is classic, crisp, and indulgent. Bon appétit!
Small Bites:
Graffiato turns five
Mike Isabella’s restaurant empire has grown so wide, so fast (including National Airport, Nationals Park, and even Richmond), it’s easy to forget it where it all started—Graffiato (707 6th Street NW). The American-Italian small plates setup is celebrating its fifth birthday with an industry party this Monday, July 11. Festivities run 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and will feature appearances by chefs George Pagonis (Kapnos) and Marjorie Meek-Bradley (Ripple, Roofer’s Union). There will be a $10 cover charge, partially benefiting the Make-a-Wish Foundation, which will get you access to free snacks and drink specials.
Happy hour for dogs (and humans)
Southern-tinged Macon Bistro and Larder (5520 Connecticut Avenue NW) has a new summer “Yappy Hour.” The dog-friendly outdoor event will happen each Saturday from 12 noon to 4 p.m. through September 3 with specials for both pets and their owners; “pup-sicles” are made with chicken or beef broth, white peaches, strawberries, blueberries, and a stalk of asparagus as the stick, while adults can enjoy popsicles made with Smooth Ambler Greenbrier gin and seasonal fruit, and kids get a booze-free variation.
A Rickey showcase in Bloomingdale
Get up close and personal with D.C.’s native cocktail this Monday at The Royal (501 Florida Ave). The bar is planning an all-Rickey menu on Monday, July 11 from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. The list of seven Rickey cocktails will sell for $8 each, using a range of spirits like rum, whiskey and, of course, gin. Guest bartender JP Fetherston will be in house from the Columbia Room and Flying Dog Brewery will be on hand with its new summer radler. If you get hungry, chef Yuan Tang of the upcoming Rooster & Owl restaurant will take over the kitchen with snacks like Vietnamese-glazed pork ribs and heirloom carrots with queso fresco and toasted almonds.
