It’s such a simple drink—the only ingredients are gin and tonic water —and so ubiquitous that everyone refers to the cocktail by its ingredients, not even bothering to give it a proper name. Yet the Gin & Tonic—the G&T, if you prefer—is known worldwide for being wonderfully refreshing on a hot summer day. With such a superlative reputation, you’d think that this recipe could remain unadulterated into perpetuity, but D.C. bartenders, always unwilling to leave well enough alone, have put their own craft spin on this classic.
“You can get a Gin & Tonic from any bartender in town,” says Cole Burger at Blue Duck Tavern (201 24th Street NW). “I’m the only bartender that can pour you a strawberry gin with rhubarb, espelette tonic.” Burger has been experimenting with gin infusions and housemade tonic for the Park Hyatt restaurant’s summer Gin & Tonic program, pairing three flavor-infused gins with three unique tonic recipes, which can be mixed and matched for a total of nine possible combinations at $14 each.
Start with Burger’s original three combinations. The first is a ruby colored Ivy City gin topped with a foamy red tonic that Burger sprays from an ISI canister. With a summery strawberry taste, the interplay between acidic rhubarb and a spicy finish from Piment d’Espelette, a smoky pepper from the Basque region of southern France, is almost like having two drinks in one. “Rhubarb is a summer flavor,” says Burger. “We cook it and the espelette down with quinine to make the tonic.” Rather than adding soda for fizz, Burger uses carbon dioxide charges that he believes makes it creamier, while cutting down on the sodium.
Next up, a Turmeric Ginger gin and Matcha tonic for a bright tasting summer drink with Japanese ingredients. “Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder that we cold brew with quinine syrup,” says Burger. “Part of the fun with matcha is the green color.” He pairs it with the spicy ginger gin infusion and fresh Japanese yuzu citrus juice to produce a soothing jade colored cocktail with lots of acidity and earthy notes.
Burger’s most unusual combination is a Green Almond Olive Oil gin and Pink Peppercorn tonic. “We mince green almonds, which have a fresh vegetal taste, and infuse them with gin and a little olive oil to soak out the aggressive edge of the almonds,” says Burger. This is combined with peppery tonic that complements the brisk herbaceousness of the gin.
Beverage manager Evan Cablayan is introducing a premium G&T list at his new home, Stanton & Greene (319 Pennsylvania Avenue SE), which was once the Pour House, a popular watering hole on Capitol Hill. Formerly of Mulebone and Macon Bistro & Larder, Cablayan says he hopes to “make Stanton & Greene more approachable and return it to its place as a cocktail destination on the Hill.” His G&Ts are closer to the look and taste of the classic, except for the addition of housemade syrups and Warwick gin.
“Bartenders shy away from making such simple drinks,” says Cablayan. “But with summer, people look for simple things that still are well done, so it’s a good time to get back to basics.” His refreshing Strawberry Rhubarb, floral Lavender Mint, and herbal Tarragon Honey G&Ts are just $8 each, gin-forward cocktails that Cablayan asserts “lets the product speak for itself.”
Head up to The Heights (3115 14th Street NW) for the Hemingway Tonic, a a strong and fruity G&T featuring Baltimore Shot Tower Gin. This play on the Hemingway Daiquiri has grapefruit juice, Boylan Heritage Tonic, and large fruit slices in a hurricane glass—a tropical presentation fit for any heat wave.
Wishniak G&T
It’s easy to make your own craft G&T by infusing fresh fruit or herbs. Wishniak, a Russian cordial made from natural cherry juice and vodka, is hard to find but easy to make. To make the Wishniak, remove pits and stems from a cup of Michigan cherries and infuse them in two cups of 100-proof vodka or gin. Soak 48 hours and add ½ cup tart cherry juice.
1 ½ ounces gin
1 ½ ounces Wishniak
Choice of tonic
Combine gin and Wishniak in a highball glass with ice. Top with tonic and stir gently.
