Vegan-without-calling-it-vegan may be the hip concept in town, but triplets Rhoni, Rhone’t, and Rhoneika Jacobs aren’t running from the label. They put it right there in the name of their pop-up restaurant: 3 Twisted Vegans.
Unlike the subtle nods to veganism at Shouk, HipCityVeg, or Fare Well—which self-identify as plant-based or veggie-centric restaurants—the D.C. natives are actively working to change stereotypes of who adopts a meat and dairy-free diet, and what that food can look like.
“For some people, they equate vegan with salads. But then they see our food and see that vegan food can be familiar,” says Rhone’t Jacobs. “We’re saying ‘don’t be scared or shy’ when they hear the word vegan.”
The thing is, she was barely aware of it until last summer, when Rhoni woke up one day and decided to try it out. All three sisters had already been practicing “clean eating” to improve stomach conditions and their asthma, when they decided to take it a step further and give up animal products entirely.
“It was foreign to us. We’re from D.C., our family is from Jamaica!” Rhone’t says. “I never really even heard of [veganism] until she brought it up. But it makes our body feel better.”
So the sisters kept it up and started learning how to make food for themselves that mimicked the dishes they were used to. On a road trip to an aunt’s house just a few weeks into their new diet, though, they realized that fast food restaurants didn’t have anything to offer them. Instead of seeing a future without commercial burgers and fries, they saw a business opportunity.
And that is how the Jacobs came to open up the first of their three vegan pop-ups within three months of actually becoming vegan.
But first they had to perfect the recipes. With a culinary background, Rhoneika started playing around with different meat substitutes, finally settling on a vegetable and soy protein crumble that she adds spices to. They tried it out on skeptical family members (“they are nowhere near vegan and they never will be,” according to Rhone’t) who gave their burgers rave reviews.
The thing is, D.C. actually has its fair share of excellent veggie burgers. But a recent sample of their OG Burger was easily the closest experience I’ve come to having meat in many years. In fact, if I had eaten it blindfolded and someone told me that it was a Big Mac, I probably would have believed them.
That, Rhone’t says, is quite intentional. She still vividly remembers when she graduated from kiddie hamburgers to the iconic Mickey D’s item and was trying to recreate that experience—crossed with a Good Burger, which is fittingly one of their favorite movies. And yes, the orange sauce does give off a distinctly 90s Kenan and Kel-esque vibe.
My two omnivorous companions kept looking at their burgers quizzically and wondering how they came this close to the real thing—which is also part of the Jacobs’ plan.
“If you could cook good food without hurting or harming animals, then why not?” Rhone’t asks. “We want vegan food to look as familiar and convenient, to the point where non-vegans reject traditional fast food chains and go with vegan indulgences instead.”
And in D.C., familiar and convenient has traditionally come wrapped tightly in foil from a carryout on the corner. And thus, so do the burgers from 3 Twisted Vegans.
“After school, on the weekends, we go to the carryout,” Rhone’t says about growing up in 16th Street Heights, just north of Columbia Heights. “We wanted to embody that carryout feel and that convenience. You know something is going to be good inside that foil.”
Right now, those carefully wrapped burgers—along with fries (very good) and milkshakes (we tried the peanut butter Oreo, which was rich to the point of extravagance)—are available on Saturdays from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. at the food incubator EatsPlace in Park View. But next up is a place of their own and other dishes (Rhoneika has been working on Jamaican specialties, though she is still awaiting full approval from their grandmother).
“We see ourselves building the first vegan empire,” the almost 24-year-old Rhone’t says, and I believe her. After all, they somehow went from learning about veganism to making and selling the city’s best vegan burger in less than a year.
3 Twisted Vegans is operating as a pop-up at EatsPlace (3607 Georgia Avenue NW) on Saturdays from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Rachel Sadon