As you may recall, I’m a self-proclaimed condiment connoisseur. I trace my love for sauces back to frequent trips to my neighborhood carryout as a high schooler where I drenched my chicken wings and fries with the D.C. culinary staple mumbo sauce.

That was back when D.C. was still dubbed “Chocolate City” and residents were more interested in hitting the carryout than a TV show-themed pop-up bar.

But as the city changes through gentrification, the condiment is popping up in new and unexpected ways as District residents try to keep the city’s cultural roots grounded.

The latest episode of Complex’s series Food Grails, First We Feast explores the journey of mumbo sauce by talking to several D.C. area natives, including rappers Wale and Shy Grizzy, activist Tony Lewis Jr., and WPGC’s DJ Flexx.

“Go-go is like the heartbeat of the city, and mumbo sauce is the blood that keeps it all flowing,” as one guy explained it to Food Grails’ host Ms. Info, who “investigates the unsung regional food icons that make America what it is.” Her episode in the District is titled Why Mumbo Sauce Is the Key to D.C.’s Subculture.

In a rebirth of sorts, the condiment can now be found outside of the traditional D.C. carryout or Chinese takeout spot. But there’s some pressure associated with offering the condiment, as David DuBois, co-founder of the fast-food chain Tasty Burger, told me when opening his first D.C. location last summer. He said adding the item to a menu isn’t something that should be taken lightly. “I’m just nervous about putting that one thing out. I want people to go ‘Mmmm… that’s good’,” the chef said.

Mumbo sauce isn’t just for eating, either. Bucketfeet, for instance, released a No Kings Collective shoe design featuring chicken wings and mumbo sauce last fall.