Five D.C. restaurants and chefs made it onto the James Beard Foundation Awards finalist lists, whittled down from 20 local semifinalists announced last month.
Kwame Onwuachi, chef of The Wharf’s Kith & Kin and the former Shaw Bijou, is a nominee for the rising star chef of the year award. The news comes just two weeks before his memoir, Notes From a Young Black Chef, is set to be released. In the book, Onwuachi, 29, details his experiences at the lauded restaurant Per Se in New York—where he says he experienced abuse and racist treatment—as well as the wave of criticism he and his $185 tasting menu faced during Shaw Bijou’s brief run. The restaurant closed in 2017 after just two months in business.
Other nominees include Pichet Ong of the Line Hotel’s Brothers & Sisters, up for outstanding pastry chef. Ong, who’s received national acclaim for his towering cakes, is also up for pastry chef of the year at the RAMMY Awards. The restaurant’s chef, Erik Bruner-Yang, did not advance from the semifinals list for the award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region.
Speaking of best Mid-Atlantic chef, only two D.C. nominees made it to the finals: Bad Saint’s Tom Cunanan and Centrolina’s Amy Brandwein. Both were finalists last year, as were fellow 2019 finalists Cindy Wolf of the restaurant Charleston in Baltimore, and Rich Landau of Philadelphia’s Vedge (that’s the plant-based big sister restaurant to D.C.’s Fancy Radish). Brandwein was named chef of the year at the 2018 RAMMYs.
After having been a semifinalist for outstanding restaurant for the past six years, Jaleo finally secured a slot among the finalists. The tapas restaurant near Metro Center was what earned its chef, some guy named José Andrés, a win for best Mid-Atlantic chef back in 2003.
D.C. had a solid showing among the foundation’s media awards, too. The Washington Post’s Maura Judkis, a winner last year for her piece on a week of immersing herself in pumpkin spice products, is up this year in the short form essay category for her satirical letter to Doritos product developers seeking to create a chip for ladies. Another Post piece, “What’s in a Food Truck?” from last spring, is a finalist for the innovative storytelling award. WETA series Pati’s Mexican Table – Tijuana: Stories from the Border is a finalist in the television category, and Edward Lee, chef and owner at D.C.’s Succotash, is a finalist for his book Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine. Meanwhile, former Eater critic Bill Addison’s piece on D.C.’s Maydan, “The Fire Gods of Washington D.C.” is among the stories that earned him a spot in the finals for the restaurant review award.
As previously announced, Patrick O’Connell of the Inn at Little Washington will receive the foundation’s lifetime achievement award, and Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse is one of five winners of the James Beard Classics award.
See the full list of finalists here. The media winners will be announced at a ceremony in New York on April 26, and the food and beverage winners will be fêted in Chicago on May 6.
Lori McCue