When Spark at Engine 12 opened in a renovated Bloomingdale firehouse in 2018, chef Peter Prime earned acclaim for a menu centered around smoked and grilled meats and seafood. For his new offering, Cane on the H Street corridor, he aims to show a different side of his native Trinidad and Tobago.
“The dishes are more traditional, instead of having that barbecue feel,” Prime says of Cane, which he runs with his younger sister, Jeanine Prime.
In fact, the 12-hour marinated jerk wings are currently the only smoked items coming out of the kitchen. Dishes trend more toward street food and small plate presentations, designed to be shared and enjoyed in groups.
Prime cut his teeth at upscale kitchens in D.C., including Equinox and the former Citronelle in Georgetown. Spark—his first solo restaurant—remains open for private events and catering, leaving Cane as Prime’s main focus.
Cane’s menu reflects Trinidad and Tobago’s own global influences from African, Asian, and European nations, and are drawn from what the chef grew up eating on the island.
Pork belly is spiced with cumin, drumsticks are laced with ginger and star anise, and traditional tiffin boxes are served with soft Indian bread and an assortment of curries and chutneys. The name itself is a nod to the country’s heavy use of sugar in cooking and spirits, and much of the food comes from feel and experience of time spent with his family.
“A lot of the recipes aren’t written down,” Prime says.
In addition to using exotic spices and recipes, Cane also hopes to introduce diners to a few less common cuts of meat. Cow heel, for example, is slow cooked for many hours, breaking down its collagen until it’s a tender bite that’s layered into a soup with chili, lime, cucumber, and cilantro.
“It’s rich and delicious without being fatty,” Prime says of the unusual protein.
Then there’s the hearty pepperpot stew with beef, oxtail, tendon, and brisket. It’s ideal when spooned over coconut lime rice. Prime expects the menu to change, based both on customer feedback and on the changing seasons.
“I do want to be able to evolve the menu and keep it fresh and interesting,” he says.
Whatever ends up on your plate, it’ll be well accompanied by an order of hops bread (they’ve got nothing to do with beer, by the way). Cane serves the traditional Trinidadian rolls warm with a side of cheddar cheese, and Prime says he’s developing other toppings and condiments for the popular bread. They come out hot throughout the day.
Along with food, the six-seat bar is an ideal vantage point for exploring restaurant’s selection of cocktails, made with fresh juices and a variety of island rums.
It’s only been a few weeks, and Prime says busy has been steady at the no-reservations space. The team plans to launch breakfast in a couple of weeks.
“It’s been really gratifying,” he says.
Cane is located at 403 H St. NE. Open Mondays and Wednesdays-Saturdays 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
