Staying on top of the city’s food scene certainly kept us busy this year, from local efforts to support workers furloughed by the government shutdown to the frontier of a newly popular meat. D.C. remained hungry for new places to eat (like the eternally Instagrammable Coconut Club, the much-lauded Seven Reasons, or the bright and airy Anju) and for drama—over Halloween bars, bagels, and the latest Michelin Star reveal.

But perhaps the defining story of the year was the closure of one beloved bar or restaurant after another. Italian joint Dino’s Grotto, Chinese mainstay Meiwah, and Columbia Heights dive The Pinch left us this year.  Three of Dupont’s biggest happy hours are no more, following the shutdown of intern haunts The Front Page, Sign of the Whale,, and Buffalo Billiards. The 9:30 Club-adjacent Satellite Room is saying goodbye, as is Georgetown bar and Americana haunt Gypsy Sally’s. And 14th Street has perhaps seen the most change, with longtime restaurants Masa 14, Drafting Table, and Policy Lounge moving out, and in the former two cases, making way for out-of-town restaurateurs. (Perhaps the NYC-based Meatball Shop’s short-lived 14th Street digs didn’t serve as enough of a warning.)

Still, there was plenty to savor in D.C.’s food and drink scene, and DCist’s writers were here to dig into it all. In their own words, here are the places, moments, and bites they loved in 2019.

HOORAY FOR UPSHUR STREET: As a proud Petworth resident, I’ve enjoyed watching the 800 block of Upshur Street continue to grow into a serious food destination. Things were looking a little bleak for Upshur just a year ago, with Hank’s Cocktail Bar and Ruta del Vino closing around the same time. But since then, two solid spots have moved in. Dos Mamis is one of the best places in the city to get a cocktail, and their back patio is a low key, chill hangout for the summer months. And I don’t know what kind of wizardry goes into making Cinder BBQ’s ribs and brisket, but it always comes out juicy and flavorful. —Stephanie Williams

A CHARGE FOR WELLNESS: There was so much in the D.C. food scene to be delighted by this year, but my top highlight has to be the initiative from area restaurants to establish a four percent “wellness charge” to its tabs. The fee, which covers employee healthcare, has been implemented at Thamee as well as Hot Lola’s and Emilie’s—both spots run by chef Kevin Tien. The country’s current tipping requirements, are more often than not, contentious (see: Initiative 77) and back-of-house staff rarely get a cut of the goods while making subpar wages. Having a four percent surcharge instead of altering menu prices brings attention to the issue, and gives employees the care they deserve. —Kalina Newman

CLUCK CLUCK: Can I forgo complexities and just say FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES?! The craze was real this year. Popeyes broke the internet. The demand for birds on buns sparked viral praise for Roaming Rooster’s fried buttermilk sammies. You can now find Hot Lola’s, a holy combination of Szechuan and Nashville heat, as a pop-up at Service Bar in D.C. (or its regular spot at Ballston Market) until the end of January, when another “Fried” pop-up will take its place. Lucky Buns‘ Katsu version still holds my #1 vote, but Maketto, Succotash, and Bantam King’s offerings aren’t far behind. Here’s hoping 2020 has even more clucking surprises in store. —Kate Stoltzfus

A BREAKFAST SANDWICH TRADITION: As a child I moved around a lot, so in my mid-20s, I’ve sought out routine, tradition, and “my” spots. This year, I found my spot in Bloomingdale’s Sylvan Cafe and Bakery. The breakfast sandwich—because I refuse to write “breakfast sammie”—has become part of my weekend routine. The bacon, egg, and cheese on ciabatta is worth going back for every Saturday morning; and if that doesn’t call to your spirit, other popular options include the scones, muffins, and Ethiopian breakfast. There’s a cozy seating area in the back, but honestly, nothing beats taking home one of those delectable breakfast sammies (ah, shoot, I said it) and adding some mild Capital City Mambo Sauce. I’m hungry just thinking about it. —Elliot C. Williams

GIVE SQUARE SLICES A CHANCE: Since opening this spring, Sonny’s has become an absolute favorite. The square pizza at the laidback Georgia Avenue spot (from the owners of Colony Club) bears a close resemblance to the frozen Ellio’s pizza of my youth. Don’t get hung up on that. The slice hits the right mix of crunch and chewiness, with super fresh cheese and a slight saltiness that has me regularly choosing it over more lauded pizzerias. If the pizza itself isn’t much to look at, the space and its adjacent cocktail bar, No Kisses, definitely are. They mix a retro 1970s vibe with deco accents to a decidedly modern effect. Bedecking a bar in velvet booths and paneling the ceiling in color-changing tiles was a bold move—but it works, creating a sexy moodiness that speakeasies are always trying to manufacture. Instead of going hard on period pieces, No Kisses feels fresh and sultry at the same time. —Rachel Sadon 

WELCOME ANAFRE: Without question, my favorite thing to happen in D.C. food this year was the opening of Anafre, Chef Alfredo Solis’ new Mexican restaurant in Columbia Heights. Anafre replaced Solis’ experiment in Cuban food, Little Havana. Personally, I always thought Little Havana left much to be desired, but Solis’ other Mexican restaurants (Mezcalero, on the same block as Anafre, and El Sol in Logan Circle) are far and away the best Mexican food in the city. I was so excited when I heard Solis was opening up a new place, this time based on a style of cooking common to rural areas of Mexico. I wasn’t disappointed. Anafre has only been open since late November, and I’ve been probably six times. Everything I’ve ordered has been delicious—I highly recommend to the Old Fashioned de Spicy Mole and the queso fundido to start. —Natalie Delgadillo

PLENTY OF FISH IN THE TINS: Canned fish have been around for over 200 years, but in the last few months, I’ve watched as my local grocery store shelves have become loaded with more than the standard offerings. There’s mackerel, trout, squid, oysters, and sardines packed with a variety of spices, imported from Portugal, Spain and places where they take tinned fish seriously as a snack and not a sad lunch staple. Restaurants, too, are joining in, with canned fish and crackers showing up on appetizer or happy hour menus here and there. —Gabe Bullard

A FRIED CHICKEN CLASSIC: On an ever-changing Georgia Avenue, I’m a sucker for the good stuff that’s been here longer than me. Places like Fish in the Hood and Sankofa (their sandwiches rival their book curation) have been holding it down since last millennium. But my favorite bite of food in 2019 came from Torrie’s. The fried chicken is made to order, requiring your patience, but then it arrives fresh—skin that’s both crispy and delicate, crunching before it dissolves on your tongue. Any best-of-D.C. list that elevates an overpriced Korean chicken wing over Torrie’s gets a dismissive eye roll from this writer. —Sam Nelson

WATCH AND GIVE: If the purpose of a restaurant is to provide both food and camaraderie, then the Women’s World Cup saw D.C.’s establishments at their best. At least one bar’s sales benefitted Girls Pint Out and Pink Boots Society, both of which are organizations for women in craft brewing. The restaurant industry has presented struggles for women and the transgender community, so this was a breath of fresh air. It’s a shame that area restaurants didn’t duplicate that outpouring of support during the Washington Mystics’ historic championship run. DCist’s reporter couldn’t seem to find watch parties around town when the team reached the semifinals. A New Year’s resolution for the industry, perhaps?—Carmen Drahl

TASTE FOR LESS: I feel like we’re reaching a point where chefs are starting to pull back the reins on spendy dining experiences and are starting to make going out to eat slightly more affordable. It felt for a while like all the food options popping up would have you spending $25-plus for an entree. That seems to be changing—Hot Lola’s comes to mind. Hopefully that continues to make dining more accessible as chefs continue to create more affordable restaurant concepts. —Patrick Fort

WE DIG A DIGESTIF: Of every bar and restaurant I recommended to folks this year, I was most enthusiastic to tell people about Don Ciccio & Figli’s newly opened facility in Ivy City. It’s a new addition to the city’s fleet of distilleries that offer locally made spirits, and the chance to learn about how they’re produced and enjoyed. In the front, the free samples are poured liberally (bring cash for a tip!) right next to the terracotta vats where botanicals, citrus, vegetables, roots, and other ingredients are soaked before being bottled into fragrant amaros, aperitifs, and digestifs. The industrial digs out front make the cool Bar Sirenis in the back seem all the more sexy. There, amid the underwater blue surroundings, you can use your new liqueur lessons to design your own cocktail. Anyone looking for a cool first date idea, you’re welcome. —Lori McCue

PERUVIAN CHICKEN: My best bite in D.C. comes courtesy of Edgewood’s Huacatay Restaurant, a Peruvian chicken spot with the most tender, delicious bird around. Because Huacatay’s offerings are affordable (under $25 for a whole chicken, plus three sides and six sauces), it’s a bite I’ve been able to enjoy with great frequency. I used to worry about feeding visitors who arrive Friday evening, but no more! Huacatay means I get to sate them at my own table without ever turning on the oven. And, once I’ve eaten every last morsel of the chicken, I throw those bones in my broth bag for future chicken stock—it’s a gift that keeps giving! —Rachel Kurzius

GEORGETOWN RISING: The de-Georgetownification of Georgetown is real, and I’m here for it. Even as a Hoya, I venture over to the chaotic corners around M St and Wisconsin only when forced or asked really, really, nicely. But as 14th Street becomes, well, more Georgetown-eque, the stately Georgetown streets are looking mighty delicious and approachable. 2019 brought new French spot Brasserie Liberté, restaurateur Hakan Ilhan’s (Mirabelle, Ottoman Taverna) replacement for a stuffy, old-guard steakhouse. Taim breathed more life into the city’s growing falafel and hummus scene (it’s also kosher and vegetarian). There’s a new relaxed pho place, the new cocktail lounge L’Annexe, and even stately Café Bonaparte got a fresh new chef. I’m not suggesting I’ll be hopping on the G2 every Saturday, but 2019 meant Georgetown is a touch more appealing for a local. —Evan Caplan

WHITHER THE HALF-SMOKE: This is so basic, but: half-smokes. Why? I ate more half-smokes this year than I have in all 6+ years I’ve lived in D.C. I was well into the double digits by fall. Where there once was confusion (listen to the first episode of Dish City to understand why), there is now a deep appreciation for D.C.’s spicy, smoky sausage. What I loved about sampling so many was that I realized there are so many more varieties than the ones you might normally see at a street cart or the ballpark. I’ve also seen more of them at markets and grocery stores for grilling at home. —Ruth Tam

IT’S KWAME’S YEAR: This year was the season of Kwame Onwuachi, the 30-year-old executive chef of the acclaimed Afro-Caribbean restaurant Kith/Kin, and I was excited to see him become a national star in 2019. Onwuachi released his memoir Notes from a Young Black Chef this year, and it called out systemic racism within the restaurant industry, prompting people to rethink their assumptions about who belongs where. The accolades continued to roll in for Onwuachi when Food & Wine magazine named him one of America’s best new chefs, and he scored the James Beard Award for Rising Star Chef. Beyond that, his book is being adapted into a feature film with Lakeith Stanfield playing the chef. This comeback arrives two years after taking a bruising from haters for daring to open Shaw Bijou, the restaurant that charged $185 for dinner and closed after 11 weeks. Here’s to Onwuachi continuing to live his best life. —Lenore T. Adkins