Fusion-style cooking is a common trend these days, with ambitious chefs mixing elements from across traditions and countries together on the plate. One of the newest — and most unique — culinary adventures is Cranes in Penn Quarter, a Spanish and Japanese mashup from chef Pepe Moncayo, who debuted the concept earlier this month.
Moncayo’s cooking is deeply rooted in his life experiences, including stops at Michelin-starred kitchens in Barcelona and Singapore. “People think that what I’m doing here is putting two cuisines together, but it’s far more than that,” says Moncayo.
This is not paella with sushi on top, the chef jokes. The thinking goes like this: he’s a Spanish-born guy who studied under a French-trained chef before moving to Asia and living in a country (Singapore) with a heavy Japanese influence in its ingredients.
“It’s not because I am intending to do fusion,” he says. “The fusion is happening inside of me. I’m affected by the environment I was in and who I was working with.”
Guests can choose to order a la carte or spring for the signature “omakase,” a Japanese word that roughly translates to “chef’s choice.” The tasting experience runs $88 and hovers around six courses. An optional beverage pairing is offered for $45 and will likely include lots of sake, a rice wine ideal for pairing with the fatty and acidic flavors of the food.
The 20 or so savory tapas ($4-$24) weave in American ingredients with an eye toward what’s fresh. Scoop up nameko mushroom rice paired with burrata and a salad of enoki mushrooms, shallots, and porcini oil or dig into a spin on classic Spanish patatas bravas with ketchup-spiked yuzu kosho. There’s plenty of seafood, too, like oysters dressed with ponzu and espelette pepper or tempura fried bacalao (salt cod) with umeboshi mayo, tororo kombu and shicimi togarashi. Meatier options include a bao bun filled with short rib and duck rillette gyoza (dumplings).
The sheer number of components across the menu is impressive, with Moncayo taking care to make sure each bite is perfectly plated. “If you are sharing as a table of four, I want every single one of you to get the same flavors into your mouth,” he says.
The kitchen is also flexible with ordering, happy to accommodate tables where some people want the omakase while others may prefer a la carte. Lunch specials will start on February 24, and happy hour is planned as well. “Even if I could do the best food in the city, it will be totally bad if we don’t provide the best service and hospitality,” Moncayo says.
Moncayo expects to change the omakase menu frequently, and not just when the seasons change. “Every week something is sprouting or a new animal is coming available,” Moncayo says. “If I only get 10 portions, then only 10 people are going to eat that.”
Drinks fall on the Japanese side of the spectrum in both the cocktails ($12-$16) and the wide selection of rice wines. The Rising Sun blends “cherry bouquet” sake with vermouth and saffron-infused gin, and the Stone Fox uses American rye whiskey together with plum wine, amaro, egg white, and bitters. Pastry and dessert get attention too, headed up by chef Jonni Scott (formerly of Fiola and Fiola Mare). Among her creations is a winter citrus tart with yuzu curd and bitter orange and a purple-hued ube (purple yam) ice cream sandwich with chocolate and coconut.
In different hands, perhaps the elements at Cranes — from the upscale design and atmosphere to the menu story and service — would be at risk to veer off course. But with a chef and owner who’s so deeply tied to the story and the journey, it feels far more natural than forced.
“Long story short, what this is, is my cuisine,” Moncayo says.
Cranes is located at 724 9th St. NW. Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and until 11 p.m. Daily lunch service to come.
