Much like its namesake Tokyo district, among the busiest in the world, Shibuya Eatery is an intersection of ideas. Since its opening in late July, the Adams Morgan kitchen has been turning out Japanese-inspired street snacks with an eye on both traditional preparations and modern interpretations by chef and owner Darren Norris.
The basement-level Shibuya Eatery shares the building with two other concepts by Norris: Death Punch, an upstairs cocktail bar, and Shabu Plus, an upcoming main-level dining room serving family-style “shabu shabu” hot pot meals and a menu of additional medium-sized “kaiseki” dishes.
Norris knows Japanese cuisine well, having opened and cooked at Kushi in Mt. Vernon Square from 2010 to 2014. It was the first mainstream izakaya (a Japanese bar specializing in quick bites and drinks) in D.C. and a white-hot reservation at its peak. Fans will certainly notice similarities during a Shibuya meal.
“There’s a bit of nostalgia,” he says. “The food is an old style that I didn’t invent but have kind of reinterpreted to be my own.”
For one, there are no fryers in the kitchen. Soba and udon noodles are made in-house. Meats and vegetables are skewered and grilled over binchotan charcoal, sourced from Japanese oak trees and valued for its steady, near-smokeless flames.
“We’re very deliberate about the flavors. We break down every aspect,” says Norris.
Innovations include pork belly, which sees three days of preparation — including a 24-hour cure, a 12-hour sous vide cook, and additional rest — before hitting the flame. Chicken breasts and thighs are marinated with shio koji, a savory blend featuring fermented rice.
“The care is there. That’s how we treat every aspect of what we do,” he says.
Norris’ cooking prioritizes local ingredients as much as possible, letting nature dictate the direction. Produce like leeks, mushrooms, and eggplant comes from a Japanese farmer in Delaware, and he says it arrives so fresh that the vegetables are often still on the vine when he orders. Fish is sourced from the West Coast and Japan.
Shibuya’s menu is naturally friendly to vegan and gluten-free diets. Buckwheat soba noodles can be paired with hot or cold vegetables like simmered mushrooms and daikon or grilled mushrooms and scallions. From the grill, graze on avocado with spicy soy glaze or baby gold potatoes with sansho pepper oil.
“We offer a lot of really healthy options — that’s part of my mission as a chef,” Norris says. “Most of the menu is plant-based, and I think that’s the future.”
Those who prefer meat can indulge in proteins like beef short rib, pork belly, eel, or chicken wings. There’s also a rotating selection of sashimi, oysters, and chilled shellfish. Grill selections range from $4.50 to $8 an order.
Upstairs, Death Punch, which opened Aug. 10, is styled after Japanese motorcycle culture. Norris conceived it as an updated version of Black Whiskey, his Brooklyn-style dive bar on 14th Street.
“I just wanted better bathrooms, better treatment on the floors, a brand-new pool table,” he says. “It’s the grown-up version of Black Whiskey.”
Syrups, bitters, and tinctures are made from scratch by bar manager Jeremy Wetmore, whose resume includes time at Left Door and The Passenger. Cocktails incorporate Japanese ingredients like plum soju and yuzu cordial alongside spirits like lemongrass shochu and Japanese whiskey. There’s a large inventory of single-serve Japanese sake and beer, along with the full Shibuya food menu—and a few Death Punch exclusives, like sashimi of the day and oysters with dipping sauce.
COVID-19 regulations have put a damper on Norris’ full vision of his concepts being bustling hangouts (there’s no bar seating or standing room available), but customers are still able to grab food and drink through table service, at 50% capacity. There’s also a small parklet out front for outdoor eating. Takeout food and beer is already up and running at Shibuya Eatery, and Norris expects to roll out to-go cocktails from Death Punch in a week or so.
Despite the obstacles of opening during a pandemic, Norris says he’s encouraged by the steady business and excited to again share his take on izakaya food.
“It’s a lot of fun to be able to put that much care into something that’s just considered carryout and delivery type of stuff,” he says.
Shibuya Eatery and Death Punch are located at 2321 18th St. NW. Shibuya Eatery is open Monday-Saturday from 12 p.m.-10 p.m. and Sunday from 12 p.m.-9 p.m. Death Punch is open 5 p.m.-midnight daily. Seating on a first-come, first-serve basis.
