“A lost sock is something that you’re looking for in the morning, like a good cup of coffee,” explains Jeff Yerxa, co-founder of Lost Sock Roasters, explaining the name of his company that opened its first café in Takoma last month.
But the shop doesn’t offer routine caffeine, generally eschewing classic brews full of dark notes and chocolatey tones. “I like the coffees that make you think, ‘Is this coffee?’” says co-founder Nico Cabrera. “More natural processed coffees known for acidity, fruitiness, and sweetness.”
For the last five years, Lost Sock Roasters sold their beans at farmers markets, boutique grocers, and to local eateries for their coffee programs. Most of their beans currently come from Latin America and Africa, though they are experimenting with some from Sumatra. There is drip coffee and pour overs available at their cafe, as well as a full slate of espresso drinks. Two cold brews are on hand: an Ethiopian single origin Cabrera says is “a little more fruity and a little more punchy” and another that has a more mainstream flavor profile he describes as “chocolatey, nutty, approachable.”
If a customer wants to discuss the finer tasting notes of any of the coffees, discover the origin story behind the beans, or geek out about the roasting process, the team is happy to talk shop. But they’re not going to force these conversations on anyone. “One thing we hate is the snobbiness of upscale cafes,” says Yerxa. “That’s one thing we wanted to avoid. It’s really about meeting the customer where they want.”
As Yerxa and Cabrera were planning the café, they knew they wanted to offer food that cut above coffeehouse stereotypes. They offer half a dozen Argentinian-style empanadas, palm-sized pastries sporting thin crusts baked rich golden brown. They’re made by Cabrera’s parents, who live in Hatboro, Pennsylvania. They formerly owned a Latin American restaurant specializing in Ecuadorian, Peruvian, and Argentinian cuisine, but they left that venture behind to start up the empanada operation, Hungry Moon in Hatboro. Four options are always on hand: steak and cheddar cheese; bacon, egg, and mozzarella; spinach and feta; and barbecued pulled pork. Specials rotate into the mix, such as Buffalo chicken and Argentinian style chicken with olives, onions, and peppers. Hungry Moon also provides pan de yucca, puffy cassava powered cheese breads. And there is a selection of more traditional, locally made pastries from Panorama Bakery.
There are a couple of toasts on hand, built on sourdough and rye breads from Breadfurst. Options are changing regularly, but have included Gruyere with marinated roasted red peppers, and house-made jam (such as blackberry or tomato) with butter and mozzarella. Two sandwiches are on offer: a Cubano with sauerkraut, and prosciutto with manchego cheese. Sometimes Cabrera makes Philly-style tomato pie with focaccia-like crust, a nod to the time he spent growing up in Pennsylvania.
The picturesque coffeeshop occupies a corner in the historic Takoma Theater building, home to Children’s National Hospital’s pediatric neurology and behavioral health facilities. Smooth concrete floors contrast with red oak counters and accents. Front facing floor to ceiling windows allow lots of light to wash in, powering the verdant array of plants from Lovers Plant Studio. Further décor comes from rotating artworks on loan from the University of Maryland Gallery of Art.
There’s some sweet symbiosis happening in the neighborhood. Lost Sock Roasters opened soon after vegan doughnut shop Donut Run just up the street. A lot of customers have been coming in for a coffee before they go wait in line for doughnuts, or they swing by with perky pink box full of rounds in search of some caffeine to pair with them. “It’s a classic combo,” says Cabrera. “You can’t go wrong.”
The duo first toured the space in June 2018, and planned to open at the beginning of last year. They’re glad that timeline didn’t work out given the pandemic’s devastating impact on many businesses. It’s yet another twist in a somewhat unconventional journey to café ownership.
Cabrera and Yerxa met sophomore year at American University. Though they had different backgrounds, both worked in food and beverage growing up. After college, Yerxa had a side hustle as a barista while working at an international development firm, where he focused on eco-tourism issues, including helping Colombia grow their tourism around the coffee trade. “I saw the whole supply chain of coffee,” he says. “I was drawn to the internationality of it, how many hands are in it.”
The pair started experimenting at home as a hobby using a microwave-sized Behmor coffee roaster. “That got us sucked into this world,” says Cabrera, who was born in Ecuador, and was drawn to the idea of supporting coffee farmers from his home country and elsewhere in Latin America.
Soon realizing that they would need a deeper skill set to roast on a commercial scale, the pair began taking classes with the Specialty Coffee Association. They formed Lost Sock Roasters in 2015, signed a lease for their roastery in Brightwood early the following year, and were roasting later that spring, selling their beans wholesale and at local farmers markets. Their beans are now brewed at Call Your Mother, Baked & Wired, and The Girl & The Vine, and bags of them can be found at Eat Peach Market, Odd Provisions, and Shop Made In DC.
“We definitely took a backwards approach,” says Yerxa. “Most people open a café first.”
Lost Sock Roasters is located at 6833 4th St. NW. Open Tuesday-Friday 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
