Daru, a self-described “Indian-ish” restaurant and bar, has opened in the onetime Star Grocery space off the east end of the H Street corridor. The venture comes courtesy of co-owners Suresh Sundas, the chef, and Dante Datta, who handles front of the house operations.
Sundas’ cooking leans occasionally traditional, sometimes more unconventional. Half a dozen snacks start off the proceedings: jackfruit tacos, duck kebabs, and mango jhalmuri — a multi-textural jumble of spiced puffed rice, mint chutney, and roasted peanuts. One that might turn heads is the reshmi kebab featuring chicken marinated in blue cheese. “I like using American ingredients to put a twist on an Indian classic,” Sundas explains.
Mains include lamb chops accented with fermented black garlic and pink peppercorn, accompanied by black pepper asparagus and potatoes sautéed with ground pomegranate seeds. Mushroom biryani, redolent with mint, cilantro, and green cardamom, is finished with a creamy raita made with whatever is freshest.
Breads are made daily. Popping out of the pack is za’atar olive naan, inspired by a stint Sundas spent cooking at D.C.’s Maydan, alongside more familiar choices, including garlic naan and whole wheat roti. There are two desserts: gulab jamun (sweet dough balls made from milk solids) and beetroot halwa garnished with edible flowers and a medley of raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries.
The cocktail list is a collaboration between Datta and head bartender Tom Martinez, who he worked with at Columbia Room. Datta says the pair aim to craft “simple, approachable, unique” drinks utilizing spices and flavor enhancers from the kitchen, such as black cardamom, saffron, lime leaf, cilantro, and coriander. The results can be surprising. Featuring rum and lime juice, the Hari Daiquiri is sweetened by simple syrup infused with mint, cilantro, and clarified curdled kefir, which gives the cocktail a velveteen feeling on your palate.
One thing you won’t see: the restaurant’s namesake. Daru is a type of Indian spirit. “Essentially moonshine made from palm sugar,” explains Datta. Currently unavailable in the United States, the partners are considering approaching a rum distillery to custom make some.
Sundas and Datta met in 2012 while they were both working on the opening of Rasika West End. Sundas was downstairs in the kitchen manning the tandoor oven, while Datta was employed upstairs as a bartender. The idea for Daru was forged several years later during chats in the kitchen, when Datta was crafting cocktail syrups and Suresh was devising dishes. Their professional paths diverged – Datta went on to be the general manager of Columbia Room and the bar manager at Ellē, while Suresh cooked around town – but their plans to open Daru continued to evolve.
They officially announced the endeavor at the start of 2019, originally envisioned as a bar with some snacks. They even did a series of pop-ups at the Green Zone and elsewhere to showcase the concept. However, COVID-19 changed their plans. “We spent a lot of time in the neighborhood during the pandemic while the restaurant was being built out,” says Datta, who lives only a five-minute walk from the restaurant. “We realized how many families were here, so we thought a neighborhood restaurant would be a better fit than a nightlife-style cocktail bar.”
The restaurant currently has 40 seats inside and another 16 outside, though the patio capacity is expected to expand soon. Additionally, food and non-alcoholic beverages, including a refreshing peach-mango lassi, are available for takeout.
Daru is located at 1451 Maryland Ave. NE. Open Tuesday-Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
