There are few things more quintessentially Chesapeake than Blue crabs and the Eastern Shore crab houses that peddle them, but for crab lovers who have a hankering for the shellfish but don’t want to make the drive out of town, a new D.C. spot called Chesapeake Crab Shack and Bar is stepping up.
The restaurant, from the group that runs popular neighborhood spots Duke’s Counter, Duke’s Grocery and Gogi Yogi, opened in late August at 925 U St. NW, paying tribute to its namesake waterway and its surrounding region where weekend crab boils and orange crushes are commonplace.
Restaurateur and Managing Partner Daniel Kramer’s venture is set up at a prime location on the U street corridor just down from Gogi Yogi, the company’s Korean barbecue restaurant.
The only thing missing at Chesapeake Crab Shack is the shack itself. The all-outdoors spot — a patch of land at the corner of U Street and Vermont Ave. NW that previously housed a pop-up from Service Bar — is easily spotted with its brown paper topped tables. Enter the gates and find more decor reminiscent of the crab shacks found up and down the Delmarva peninsula: think fishing nets, life rafts, and buoys, as well as a casual bar area lined with white stools that would be at home dockside.
As the restaurant’s name suggests, it harnesses the flavors of the bay but with a flair, which is visible with the starters alone. Old Bay-tinged cole slaw, Maryland crab soup, and mac and cheese with lump crab are options to kick off your meal. The stars of the show, the crabs themselves, come in the half dozen or dozen, in large or jumbo sizes. The crabs are seasoned with an Old Bay-based mix that combines the beloved local spice blend with hot chili powder, brown sugar, oregano and thyme.
Along with a mallet and knife, the hot crabs arrive piled onto a red plastic tray. Guests can add on chili dust for a spicier flavor. Veteran crab pickers know this isn’t a clean endeavor; Wet Wipes, paper towel rolls, and big silver buckets are handy to help clean up the ensuing mess.
The Shack is helmed by Chef Allyn “Ink” Barrack, who serves as the corporate executive chef for all locations within the Duke’s family. He brings his seafood expertise to Chesapeake after a stint as the chef de cuisine at Danny Meyer’s (now closed) Maialano Mare in Navy Yard. As much as possible, Barrack relies on local purveyors like Jessie Taylor Seafood at the Wharf to source Chesapeake blue crab.
But record low blue crab population in the Chesapeake Bay this season has posed some unique challenges for the team. Depending on availability, the kitchen won’t exclude blue crabs from the Gulf of Mexico. “This crab season has been extremely challenging so we must source creatively, responsibly, and frequently,” Kramer says. “It’s not like we can have a standing order delivered on Mondays and Fridays, for example.” The current high market rates for crabs are reflected at the Shack, where a dozen Extra Large crabs are going for around $145.
As for drinks, Chesapeake follows in the footsteps of its predecessors with a casual and straightforward list. Curated by Director of Operations Angie Duran — who is also director of operations at Bottles Wine Garden in D.C.’s West End — it’s comprised of draft beers from local breweries, fresh squeezed orange or grapefruit crushes, and a handful of cocktails such as a watermelon gin Rickey and a Paloma. House wines in bubbly, rosé, white, and red options round out the selection.
While Maryland crabs are most bountiful in the summer and early fall, the season typically runs through November. Following the blue crab season, the team plans to evolve the menu with other shellfish like lobster, snow crab legs, and seafood towers served on the winterized patio.
The opening days have been exciting and busy, Kramer says. “Crab feasts are so special to DMV residents so there has been some helpful feedback and a lot of fond reminiscing,” he says. “Overall, the guests are happy to be swinging wooden mallets while sipping on beer and cocktails.”
Crabs will be available on a first-come, first-serve basis, but customers can make reservations for tables via Resy.Chesapeake Crab Shack is open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., Wednesdays to Sundays and only offers dine-in service at this time.
