Even the ceviches benefit from a searing kiss from the grill at Del Campo. And many of the drinks get torched before they get poured.

It’s likely you’re already familiar, in passing at least, with the work of Juan José Campanella. The Argentinean director makes his living working in American television, with a diverse résumé that runs from quick-witted comedy (Strangers With Candy, 30 Rock) to formula dramas (Law & Order, House), presumably using the financial security and connections that work affords him to make films back in his native land. After seeing his latest, The Secret in Their…