It’s hard not to love a fried food, especially chicken. One might argue over which cut is best—dark meat or white, wings or drumsticks?— but the consummate fried bird has a crackling brown exterior and moist and flavorful meat within. Like dumplings or noodles, fried chicken spans cultures; it’s not just a Southern thing, as the international success of the Other KFC can attest. Even vegetarian and vegan approximations of the dish are surprisingly good,…