A view of the bar at Second State. (Danel Swartz, REVAMP)

By DCist contributor Travis Mitchell

Compared with other D.C. neighborhoods, Dupont Circle’s dining scene is not quite as buzzy. But new options are always worth a first look, even those best-known for a $1 artisanal ice controversy. We speak of the newly-opened Second State (1831 M Street NW), which DCist recently visited to check out the farm-to-table menu and beverage program.

Located in the former Mighty Pint building, the renovated two-level dining room looks nothing like a party bar. It’s a warmly lit and cozy space that’s appropriate for a date or a laid-back dinner with friends.

The name Second State is an homage to Pennsylvania, which was the second state to ratify the U.S. Constitution. The state’s influences are seen across the decor, food and drinks. The ingredients are not sourced exclusively from Pennsylvania — such as swordfish and oysters, to name a few — but everything is as local as possible.

The cocktail program revolves around whiskey, several from distilleries in Pennsylvania, and standout drinks include the whiskey sour and the Dutch mule, a whiskey take on the Moscow mule. There’s also a Pennsylvania-only beer list. The ice is free.

When it comes to food, the small plate portions are not only large enough for sharing but are also some of the best dishes on the menu. Gooey cheddar pierogies are topped with bacon and caramelized onions. Root beer-braised short ribs are fork-tender and served with a smooth parsnip and garlic puree.

Proteins are ordered a la carte and intended to be paired with shareable sides. Don’t be immediately turned off by the high prices, as dishes like the $25 pork chop or the $29 filet mignon will easily feed two people. If you want to try something new, consider choosing the venison chop or the roasted pheasant.

When ordering the family-style sides, focus on the fried Brussels sprouts, the mac and cheese or the beer-buttered mushrooms. Among the other options are fries, baked beans and creamed corn.

For dessert, shoefly and pecan pie provide a fitting end to your homestyle feast. And look out for a special cordial offered to all diners at the end of the meal.

Because this is Washington, Second State has also launched a Sunday-only brunch menu that rewards the well-dressed. A flier on the restaurant’s website says men in suit jackets will receive a complimentary whiskey and women wearing dresses will get a glass of champagne. (Editor’s note: After initially having a smash the patriarchy meltdown, Second State told us men and women can choose between champagne and whiskey, although that’s not stated on the website. Theoretically, under the D.C. Human Rights Act, the restaurant is not able to deny a glass of whiskey to a woman in a jacket or a glass of champagne to a man in a dress.)

Happy hour crowds can take advantage of $1 oysters Monday through Friday from 5 to 6 p.m., though that’s not really the primary draw of making a trip to Second State. Stick with the down-home meats, small bites and desserts.