For restaurateur Hakan Ilhan, Ottoman Taverna (425 I St. NW) was a highly personal project. The Turkish-born Ilhan has been in the D.C. restaurant business for years and currently owns several restaurants, including Alba Osteria, Al Dente, and L’Hommage Bistro Francais. But he saw his native Turkish food, and the cuisine of the Ottoman Empire as a whole, as a gap in the city’s booming restaurant scene. And he certainly didn’t want to screw it up. So he took two years to bring the concept to life.
The food and drinks at Ottoman Taverna draw inspiration from places like Turkey, Greece, and North Africa, but this is no quick-serve kabob or hummus spot. Executive Chef Ilhan Erkek’s resume includes stints at Ritz Carlton hotels in Naples, Florida and Istanbul, and his experience shines throughout the menu, which includes hot and cold meze (small dishes) as well as full entrees. The cocktail program features rakia and other regional ingredients, while the wine list incorporates grapes from Greece, Macedonia, and Serbia. The menu names can be hard to pronounce, but don’t let that keep you from ordering.
Consider starting with the Chef’s Choice Cold Meze ($24), which is large enough for sharing and more than enough for two. Stuffed grape leaves, confit garlic hummus, and muhammara (a dip of red pepper, walnut, and olive oil) are just a few of the items that you might find on the platter, or you can order them solo. On the hot side, cheese lovers will want to order up the Sigara Boregi—crispy rolls of filo dough bursting with melted feta cheese and parsley.
Unlike many other small plates restaurants around the city, ordering meze here isn’t meant to be the main attraction. The entrees feature traditional recipes, many of which are satisfying variations on chicken, beef, and lamb kebabs, and are reasonably priced considering the restaurant’s polished service and atmosphere.
For a well-made standard, try the Tavuk Iskender ($21.75), a heaping plate of doner kebab with pita bread, tomato, and yogurt sauce. The Hunkar Begendi is a recipe with a centuries-old history, pairing braised lamb shank with a savory eggplant purée, while pescatarians can indulge in pan-seared branzino ($24.95) that’s been farm-raised in Turkey and then prepared with mashed fingerling potatoes, olives, and capers. Vegetarian options are limited, though the current menu does include a hearty cauliflower stew.
Whatever you order, don’t miss out on tasting chef Erkek’s rich and addicting Turkish rice pilaf. The buttery grains are so essential to the region’s cuisine that legend has it Ottoman sultans used rice as a test for all would-be chefs. And it makes sense why: the dish seems simple on the surface, but requires finesse in execution to perfect.
At this point in your meal, you’ll probably be stuffed. Even so, dessert is a worthwhile indulgence. The kunefe was a surprise hit during a recent press event, a crispy syrup-soaked confection filled with melty, stringy cheese and topped with pistachios. There’s also baklava and, for something a bit lighter, an assortment of house-made ice creams.
Ilhan hopes to roll out special dishes, brunch, and occasional themed-dining nights once the operation gets humming. Happy hour runs Monday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the spacious bar, with dishes priced from $3.50 to $6.
