Back in October, the Post gave its weekly Food section a makeover. Some changes — such as the welcome introduction of Greg Kitsock’s monthly beer column and David Greggory founder David Hagedorn’s every-so-often cooking column (not to mention his immediately pre-makeover face-off with former Post restaurant critic Phyllis Richman) — have helped to modernize and diversify a stodgy section that had increasingly rested its reputation on the always solid restaurant commentary of Tom Sietsma and Richman before him. But other changes — most notably, the dumbing-down of a key component of section’s wine coverage — have been met with much derision. And rightly so.