With 30 days of vegetarianism behind me, I have a new appreciation for meat and its contribution to my dishes. Even if animal protein is the feature, other ingredients must share the spotlight. That’s why the Oval Room’s head chef’s view on the use of animals in cooking is so refreshing. Matthew Secich sees meat as a precious commodity–to be used sparingly, and only when it’s of the highest quality. This viewpoint makes the massive portions prevalent at steakhouses and other popular restaurants seem archaic, wasteful, and even barbarous.

Dishes that are thoughtfully balanced are less overwhelming than meat-driven entrees. The roast lamb loin featured at the Oval Room is a perfect example. Here, tender pieces of lamb are perched upon bright sweet peas dressed in a light wild mushroom sauce. Jewels of tapioca mingle on the plate, passively adding a whimsical play on textures, as fresh mint rounds out the flavors. The dish highlights the rare sacrifice of quantity for quality.