Although we find the D.C. area’s Jose Andres-induced tendency toward small plates occasionally irksome, Rabieng has adapted to this trend in a novel way. During Saturday and Sunday brunch, Rabieng showcases its interpretation of Bangkok’s numerous food stall delights on its “Thai Street Food Dim Sum Brunch Menu.”

We started off with their Pan Fried Jumbo Chive Dumplings. The outside of each of the two dumplings was appealingly browned and bubbled — practically volcanic. Beneath the well done exterior, the inner layer was soft, thick, and doughy, and it housed a dense green mass of sauteed chives which were further soothed by their sweet soy dipping sauce.

The “Som Tom” Papaya and Carrot Salad, however, turned out to be somewhat of an underachiever. The shredded green papaya was served in a mild vinaigrette that had none of the heat and sour of our favorite renditions of this Thai classic.