The hottest article over at the New York Times this weekend wasn’t about Iraq, the World Series, or even that delusional Yale kid’s video resume. No, Saturday’s most-e-mailed article was a report that the $40 entree has popped up on menus in New York restaurants and across the country.
Although some restaurateurs interviewed for the article said that they’d jacked up prices beyond the psychological $40 barrier in response to increasing costs, a “menu engineer” — which, incidentally, sounds as if it were a profession that might appear in Stanley Bing’s popular book — suggested that including even a single staggering price on a menu will drive up the average check. How? By making lower-priced entrees appear more reasonable in comparison.
D.C. certainly boasts its share of expensive eateries. Indeed, more than a few have already priced some entrees at $40 — or more. Le Paradou’s take on the veal chop — “Côte de Veau à l’Os Poêlée, Pommes Cocottes aux Artichauts et Olives ‘Picholines’” — will set you back deux Jacksons, or a cool $40. At Teatro Goldoni, the “Costoletta Di Vitello Arrostita Servita Con Patate Novelle Al Forno E Funghi Misti” (a/k/a “veal chop with roasted potatoes and mushrooms”) runs an amazing $43.50. You know, because baby cow costs more in Italian.