Dish of the Week: Curry laksa
Where: Spices/Nooshi, Malaysia Kopitiam

The first time I tasted curry laksa, it was prepared by a Singaporean friend, who I watched cleave piles of dark meat into an enormous stew pot before putting in a number of different spices. What came out was a questionable, murky soup with spicy red oil floating on top. But wow, was it delicious.

Curry laksa is one of those beautiful fusion children of Malaysian cuisine with Thai coconut milk, Indian curry and Chinese-style egg noodles. It is finished with different types of meat, seafood, fried tofu, and vegetables. It sometimes has a gritty texture from belacan, a dried shrimp and chili paste, but the redolence of cinnamon, galangal, and lemongrass, plus the slight burn of chilies, make it worth overlooking.

My personal favorite is the curry laksa at Spices/Nooshi that allows you a choice between chicken or shrimp and includes both egg and vermicelli style noodles. This lighter version is topped off with fried tofu puffs, still-crisp green beans, and bean sprouts. Meanwhile, the Malaysia Kopitiam versions are nothing to balk at. Select from three types of noodles – egg, rice or vermicelli (get the egg). The flavorings are slightly more traditional with a muskier, denser flavor, but lacking the additional tofu and green beans accoutrements. You may also choose a variation that includes just those items, as well as selections that include pork rib and beef.