I had visited The Potter’s House on Columbia Road several years ago, when a friend’s band used the space to play a fundraiser gig for a local non-profit. I think the Christian bookstore / coffeeshop / fellowship hall was selling coffee and cake that night, and I took note of the open kitchen in the back and a small menu offering veggie lasagna — and maybe a hummus plate — but not much else during dinner hours.

I never paid it much mind as a place to dine until I noticed a banner outside and some leaflets left around the neighborhood advertising a new Saturday brunch buffet — all you can eat from a modest selection breakfast items and other savories for $12.95, with a rotating international selection each week.

The brunch service goes from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., and when I checked it out, my 1 p.m. arrival made me the last patron of the day. Moist and cheesy scrambled eggs are made in small batches, and I enjoyed the sweet flavor of the hickory-smoked bacon being served. Friendly servers emerge from the kitchen to welcome us, letting us know they’ve got more waffles on the way, prepared just for us. I go back for a second slice of spinach, mushroom and cheese quiche that would fit in well on any brunch menu.

A small selection of lunch entrees, including white clam pizza and beef enchiladas with black beans, are flavorful, but a little worse for the wear after their time in the steam tray. I was particularly impressed with the featured ethnic cuisine during my visit. The coffeehouse was celebrating Caribbean American Heritage Month that day and a bubbling crock pot yields curried chicken falling off the bone. It’s like a family dish you might expect a great home cook to bring to a potluck. It’s very straightforward cooking.

There are no Bloody Marys or mimosas, but your first glass of Tropicana apple or orange juice is included. We’re encouraged to come back another time for a smoothie ($3.25, only on Saturdays) or milkshake ($2.75).

During the week, a Southern breakfast plate of eggs, bacon, grits, home fries, and toast costs $6.75 or each item can be ordered a la carte for $1.50. The potatoes are crispy and seasoned just enough on the outside and soft on the inside.

The best part is the bread. I don’t know of any other place in the city where you’ll find a homemade whole-wheat roll as your breakfast toast. The toast exemplifies the home-cooked care and below market pricing that makes Potter’s House a spot I want to return to for breakfast. I didn’t ask for the roll, but the amiable chef who took my order at the counter and delivered it to my table, knew best and added it to my plate. I will make sure never to leave it off my order again.

There are homemade sandwiches for lunch and day-of-the-week lunch specials like meatloaf Tuesdays and fish Fridays. The website also advertises ridiculously cheap catering prices.

While it serves honest food at a great value, The Potter’s House isn’t exactly a restaurant. Is selling you inexpensive, but quality food just a way to get you in to preach to you? I’ve not found that to be the case at all. The webpage for the restaurant says “Over food for body and soul, people come to find community and search for meaningful spirituality. We meet Christ here each day through meeting with each other, meeting the people of the Adams Morgan neighborhood, and visitors from afar.”

At times it’s a place for food, at other times a gathering place for faith-based and progressive programming. I notice a table sign printed for Tuesday that designates one of the tables as a Race Discussion Table and a bulletin board that advertises other events. But proselytizing isn’t one of those things.

When I’ve been there, the small crowd seems to be a mix of people who are and aren’t affiliated with the church and the services it offers. Young men work on laptops taking advantage of the free WiFi. Some browse the bookstore, a corner of the space filled with some pretty esoteric religious niches (Celtic Christianity, anyone?), progressive categories, Washington guides, greeting cards, children’s books and gifts.

The Potter’s House is part of a network of Christian faith communities in Washington promoting the idea that church can take place in non-traditional settings. The Potter’s House is one of those settings. Likewise are several health, homeless and jobs services programs that they offer in the community.

If you hit up the brunch at the Potter’s House, there will be signs of faith around you. But I think they’re also happy if you come to find a $12.95 all you can eat buffet instead of meaningful spirituality. And perhaps, for some, there is meaningful spirituality in the buffet.

The Potter’s House
1658 Columbia Road NW
(202) 232-5483
Metro: Woodley Park/Adams Morgan