’Tis the gift to be simple, ‘tis the gift to be free…. Appalachian Spring, more specifically the seventh section of the suite known to many as Simple Gifts, is the soundtrack José Andrés hears for his new pop-up restaurant, America Eats Tavern.

“For every restaurant I have a soundtrack in mind, and for this restaurant it was the clearest,” he explains. The adapted Shaker hymn has become synonymous with patriotism, and a certain idealistic view of America — it’s no surprise that the restaurant is set to open on July 4.

Just over 20 days ago, Andrés closed his Penn Quarter restaurant Café Atlántico, and began renovations for America Eats. The new concept will remain open until January 2012, after which he will expand the still-open Minibar to 12 seats and the space will host a new, to be undecided, concept.

America Eats is a complement to the National Archives exhibit, What’s Cooking Uncle Sam? The Government’s Effect on the American Diet, which takes a historical look at food, food policy and marketing. With support from the Dole Food Company and donations, the profits during the six months will go the Foundation for the National Archives.

In developing the menu, Andrés has focused on the cuisine of America from the 1500s to the 1800s. Andrés believes that one of the greatest things about America is how it has done the best job of any country of assimilating immigrants from so many different countries in to a melting pot. By extension, diners can get foods from every region of the world. But he notes that one of the downsides is the lack of acknowledgment and preservation of traditional American cuisine, such as that featured in the first American cookbook, American Cookery by Amelia Simmons. In particular, he points to the disappearance of non-tomato ketchups, such as black walnut, blackberry and mushroom — items that will appear on the menu.

Andrés defines the vision for his menu via a sculpture that is the centerpiece of the restaurant’s design. Distressed white window frames, archival photos from the National Archives and Freedom from Want, Norman Rockwell’s well-known painting of a Thanksgiving dinner, cascades from the ceiling of the third floor to the first floor. Andrés describes it as looking through the windows of the 21st century at the past.

From the little look I sneaked at the menu, as well as reports in the media, diners at America Eats will see items like mac and cheese, New England clam chowder and crab cakes, each given the unique José Andrés treatment. (Expect to see some foams and fancy plating.) And while I was there, Andrés was finalizing the preparation and plating of some dishes. I was able to sample his take on coleslaw — raw leaves of Brussels sprouts, large shavings of carrots and bits of lettuce with a vinaigrette littered with mustard seeds and dabs of creamy sauce. It looks like a salad, but the combination mimics the cool creaminess of coleslaw. (We’re still awaiting finalized menus, and will update with information as we receive it.)

Imbibers will have a selection of all-American options (minus a few Old World wines), as selected by bartender Owen Thomson. Cocktails such as mint juleps, Moscow mules, and sherry cobblers populate the cocktail menu, and will be served with all the right equipment — julep cups, copper mugs, Mason jars and metal straws.

Another very apparent aspect of the restaurant is the prominence of an American flag motif. The vertical America Eats Tavern banner is blue, and the formerly silver awnings are now painted in alternating red and white. A large painting of the flag hangs on the first floor, and recessed rafters are painted red and white, flanked by an end bean of blue to mimic the flag. This was a purposeful decision by Andrés working with SEED designers Gonzalo Bustamante and Vincent Celano, as he explains that no country respects and values their flag as a symbol than the United States. To him, it seemed only natural that this be a major focus of the design.

Andrés explains that he wants the restaurant to be a tribute to more than just seeing and hearing. But museums are also meant to teach us perspective — and what America Eats shows diners is an untarnished view of America and its food through the eyes of a Spanish immigrant, in all of its red, white and blue glory.

We hope that to eat will be our delight, till by enjoying it we come ’round right.

America Eats Tavern
405 8th Street NW
(202) 393-0812
Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown (Red), Federal Triangle (Orange, Blue), Archives/Navy Memorial (Yellow, Green)